My husband and I first glimpsed Cala de Deià while watching a TV miniseries based on John Le Carré's suspenseful novel... "The Night Manager."  In one scene an intense confrontation takes place at an outdoor family luncheon held right above the sea.  This scene is particularly scary because it juxtaposes the insanely idyllic backdrop with a brutal armed invasion. As a viewer, you feel taken off guard and vulnerable while watching!  

Not long after we watched the miniseries Señor Aventura explained to me that the scary scene had been filmed at a Mallorca beach he'd like to visit someday, the Cala de Deià.  

So, on our first family trip to Mallorca we made this beach a family priority! 

Thickly wooded pine trees overlook it and you actually have to take quite a hike down a long paved road to reach this secluded spot.
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As it turns out there is no sand at Cala de Deià.  It's a tiny beach made of shingles, pebbles, rocks and gravel - all of which are surrounded by high cliffs.  ​
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There are really two main attractions at this beach.  First, the water is extremely clear!  Visibility is great and you can see fish swimming around even in the shallow areas.  We noticed plenty of people with snorkeling gear at Cala de Deià.
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The other attraction is the restaurant to the left of the beach "Ca's Patro March" which hovers above the water on the side of the cliff.  With luck you can enjoy a wonderful afternoon there feasting on fresh seafood and traditional Mallorcan dishes, along with wine, gelato and homemade dessert.  (Reservations recommended.)  ​
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​Honestly, this is an exceptionally romantic spot!  If you happen to be there without three children, that is... 

"Someday we should come back here, just the two of us!" smiled Señor Aventura.

Worth it for the views alone, the food is also quite tasty at the oceanfront restaurant and we found the service to be very friendly and accepting... even though we arrived at sunset with cranky, tired kids who were 'starving!' after their swim in the sea. Two hours later our family left with full tummies and everyone smiling!!!
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The sandy part of the beach is very small with some large rocks dividing it into sections. During summer months the beach can become so crowded that there is literally nowhere left to sit!  For this reason we recommend experiencing the Caló des Moro in the Spring (Semana Santa) or during the Fall (October) to fully enjoy the exquisite beauty of the place without the hassle of big crowds.  

We smiled to hear so many different languages being spoken along the beach... German, French, Spanish, English, Dutch and even Portuguese!  Everyone together, just chilling out and enjoying the day!
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Later during our dusky walk back to the car we discovered that there is another nearby beach (Cala S'Almunia) very nearby... but it is more of a beach for divers and less for swimmers.  Much less beautiful!  
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A word of caution - nude bathing is allowed at both of these beaches and our children got a good giggle out of seeing an elderly couple walking without clothing on the beach. 

"Look Mommy! That old lady is naked!" laughed Little Angel before I could shush her.

"Oh my gosh!  Look away!" shrieked her brothers who were simultaneously horrified and delighted. 

Also, it's a good idea to keep in mind that neither of these wild beaches have facilities (e.g. no bathrooms or restaurants) as they are both well off of the beaten path.  We recommend bringing in your lunch along with anything you may need for personal hygiene. Sadly, neither Caló des Moro or Cala S'Almunia is wheelchair accessible. 

However if you're okay with these realities and still looking for a great outdoor adventure, we give the Caló des Moro top marks!  It's one of the top three most beautiful beaches I've ever visited in person!
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​Historically speaking, croissants were invented in Turkey or Austria... but who can deny that the French have absolutely perfected them?  Start your day with a leisurely stroll to one of the boulangeries on every single block of Le Marais.  So many options! 

​You can purchase fresh homemade croissants, pain au chocolat, gorgeous raisin rolls, tiny quiches... or warm baguettes straight out of the oven! Should you choose to dip a flaky, buttery treat in your mug of café au lait, who are we to say "Non"? ​
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2) Take in breathtaking city views from the top of Sacré-Coeur
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Now that you've fueled up on pastry deliciousness, challenge yourself with a brisk climb! Charge up the 270 steps up to the basilica of the Sacré-Coeur church which sits on top of Montmartre... you'll be richly rewarded by the view!  Many people spend hours relaxing on these steps with their friends or lovers, whispering together and dreaming in a way that is perhaps only possible in Paris at sunset.

(Not up to climbing today? No worries, you can catch a funicular too!) 

The views of Paris from this vantage point are unsurpassed as this is the highest point in the entire city. Seeing the street grid of this well-organized metropolis from the top of Montmartre will also give you a much better grasp on the 'lay of the land' as you begin your special day. 
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Don't forget to peek inside of the Sacré-Coeur church itself while visiting but do keep one hand on your wallet as this is a very popular area for travelers and pickpockets alike!  

Finishing touches were put on the Sacré-Coeur basilica in 1914, just as World War I was beginning. The name means "Basilica of the Sacred Heart" and this lovely white building was consecrated in 1919 after the end of that awful war. At just over 100 years young, Montmartre's Sacré-Coeur and its vistas will inspire you!

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3) Wander through the Musée D'Orsay for a few perfect hours
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Now that you've breakfasted and gotten some exercise and inspiration, why not see what all the fuss is about?  For only 12 euro (kids under 18 are free) you can spend an hour or an entire afternoon expanding your soul in this gorgeous museum on the banks of the River Seine.  

Built in 1900 inside of a former railway station, this museum offers a quality of light and spaciousness in a way that other museums rarely manage to achieve.  Featuring a very diverse collection of paintings and sculptures alongside an incredible group of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works, there is plenty to see and experience within its walls.
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The Musée D'Orsay offers a top-of-the-line experience.  The best of Monet, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet, Degas, Van Gogh and Seurat can all be found here... along with countless other priceless pieces!

Reservations are recommended at this traditional, welcoming French restaurant in Les Halles. Once featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" show, the special brasserie La Tour Montlhéry- Chez Denise is authentic and worthwhile. With an ample chalkboard menu full of hearty food, sumptuous sauces and excellent wines, you will not be disappointed! ​
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The men who run the restaurant may seem a little bit gruff at first but warm up quickly, especially if you try to speak even a little French.  By the end of your meal it will be all smiles and laughter!

"Can we get Escargot?" begged Soccer Dude, and so we did... ordering snails, salad, beef with bacon, and three types of fabulous fish. Wine comes by the bottle or the carafe and freshly baked bread with butter is brought to the table in plentiful baskets. ​
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Created by two Italian friends, Cristiano Sereni and Paolo Benassi, Amorino is not your every-day ice cream... although you can definitely eat it every day!

Careful to use only the highest quality ingredients in their original gelatos and sorbets, Amorino offers options for guests who prefer an organic and/or vegan lifestyle. 

Eight year-old daughter Little Angel and I were both enthralled by the creation of the signature Amorino ice cream cone, which involves gently forming petals of gelato in the shape of a multi-colored flower with a special kind of scooping tool.  I'll be honest, I ordered the 'Chantilly' whipped cream just because I wanted to see how it would look on top of my ice cream flower!  (Didn't hurt that it was sooooo tasty too!)
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As people who pride ourselves on being gelato 'experts' we were blown away not just by the look of this dessert but also by its quality, texture and taste.  The Amorino caramel flavor is the best I've ever tried... even in Italy! What a great way to wrap up a perfect day. 

​Here is a glimpse of Amsterdam's famous Vondelpark, 120 gorgeous acres in the heart of the city.  At all times of year this huge park offers a welcome, peaceful respite from the hubbub of busy streets nearby!  

We've been to the Vondelpark several times before on prior visits to Amsterdam.  Each experience manages to be entirely different for us depending on the weather and time of year.  

Yesterday was no exception!  At -3C (26.6F) in late February the park was full of frozen and half-frozen streams, patches of ice, barren trees and delightful mud to muck through.

As it was also a gorgeous sunny Sunday, the Vondelpark was also full of people!  People of all ages and many nationalities were out and about, strolling and playing in the park.  The below freezing temperature weather did not seem to dissuade anyone (including us) from getting out there to have a great day in the sun!
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​As a family from southern California currently living in Barcelona, we've spent most of our lives enjoying warm, temperate weather.  It's not unusual to have a day in late February where the temperatures in San Diego, California may rise to the mid 60s... or maybe even low 70s! (17-20C).  

Playing outside in 26 degree weather is something new for all of us!  We loved it!

"I have read about this!" I grinned at my husband Señor Aventura. 

"Read about what?" he asked.

"I've read about how children in Scandinavia go out to play at recess, several times a day, even when it is snowing and there are below freezing temperatures!  We've learned about this in my teaching courses. Children need to play, no matter what the weather is!  It's kind of sad that we make them stay indoors on rainy days in California."

"Well, the cold certainly doesn't seem to be bothering them!" He gestured to our own three children, two of whom were busily kicking around a soccer ball (futbol) and one of whom was having the best time on a swing.  

"Hey Mom, can you hold my jacket?" The Scientist came running over to the bench where we sat in the sun.  "I am boiling hot!"

We smiled to see how hardy our children have become, accustomed to jumping into new lifestyles and opportunities without much thought.

​"Mommy!" shouted Little Angel, "Look at the bird!" 

She pointed toward a large black crow hopping across the ice while chirping loudly, perhaps looking for food.  

"He's ice skating!" she beamed.

In fact all around the park, we saw and heard glorious birds.  We saw pigeons three times the normal size, huge crows, ducks, geese and spectacular black and white birds whose names we did not know.  The trees were filled with birds jumping from limb to limb, warbling away.  They too did not seem to mind the below freezing temperatures!

All told we spent about 90 minutes walking and playing in the gorgeous frozen Vondelpark yesterday, surrounded by hundreds of other park enthusiasts of all ages.  From the smallest children playing tag to elderly ladies walking arm in arm, everyone in Amsterdam seemed to be thrilled by this taste of wilderness just a few blocks away from clanging tram lines and the Museumplein.

The Vondelpark also features an open-air theater, a playground and a beautiful restaurant/cafe where you can purchase delicious apple cake and coffee! 
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​We recommend visiting this spectacular park in all seasons.  Whether you are an adult walking alone, a couple looking for a romantic stroll, an athlete hoping to get exercise or a family eager to get some fresh air and have fun... you will absolutely be satisfied with your experience!
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Regular readers of our blog have wondered why it's been so quiet for the past few months... several of you have reached out to ask privately if everything is ok. Here are the three main questions I've been asked:

Did you leave Spain? No. In fact, we have extended our time in Spain for another year.  We will be returning home to live in California (definitely) in early August of 2019... just in time for our eldest son to start high school. The dream of living for one year in Europe has now turned into three!  What a blessing!

Has your family stopped traveling?  No. Since my last posted article we have taken trips throughout Portugal, the United States and Bellver de Cerdanya. Six days from now we will leave to spend 'ski week' in Amsterdam and Paris!  The Aventura family continues to travel as much as we can.

Have you stopped writing?  Definitely not.  I am hard at work completing a novel I have been working on for the last year+.  As a busy mother of three kids with lots of activities (and a husband who spends a lot of time in California) there is only so much time for me to devote to writing in a week.  I've been putting all of my writing time/energy into finishing the novel... and sending chapters out to interested readers for critique and feedback.  Although I've written well over 300 pages, I've recently revised my story arc and so am still hard at work!

Due to this busy novel writing schedule and because readers are missing our posts, I've decided to launch weekly "Taste of Travel" snippets for this travel blog.  They'll give you all a glimpse of fun, beautiful or inspiring travel moments around the world... while helping to tide everyone over until the novel is finished and I can get back to writing travel feature articles. 

P.S.  Years of Adventure Travel Blog readers and friends... thanks so much for the love!!!

It's not too early to begin planning your Spring Break or summer vacations... so we'll keep posting adventure ideas and we hope to inspire you to pack your bags and come see the world!

Click 'play' for audio recording:

At age 19, I was an easy sell.  This was the stuff dreams are made of.  Later, when back studying at my university in California, I came across a cigarette ad in a magazine that was set in Capri.  In it there is a photo of a beautiful woman on a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean.

Above the woman, the ad reads:  "She's gone to Capri and she's not coming back."  ​

Twenty two years later I found myself on a warm June day crossing the Bay of Naples again. I was headed back to Capri!  Except this time, I'd brought not just 'THE' right person... by my side were FOUR of my favorite people!  

Seated next to me in the crowded, slightly run-down professional ferry were my husband Señor Aventura and our three children - The Scientist (11), Soccer Dude (10) and Little Angel (8).  

There we were, crossing the Mediterranean in the glorious summer sunshine!

And boy, were they ever grumpy!
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Everyone was sleepy and hungry. Little Angel was yawning. Soccer Dude wanted to play video games on a phone. My husband mentioned about ten times how much he preferred to go on wild swimming adventures. Even more, The Scientist had an infected cut that was really bothering his foot.  Every single step the poor guy took hurt. There was a lot of grumbling! As you can see from the photos, none of them were that excited about our arrival.
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"It's going to be great!" I chirped at them like an irritating mama Pollyanna.  

"Humph!" they groused, and continued silently up the hill to the heart of town.
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With food in our bellies, our little group of grumblies stopped noticing only the hordes of tourists flocking restaurants, cafes and jewelry stores around us... and instead began to see the loveliness of the buildings and the land.

"It's pretty here, Mom," Little Angel exclaimed. "There are so many flowers!"
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So here's the thing. Capri has been a 'resort town' for thousands of years since the days of the Roman Emperors.  This area has been dedicated to tourism before most major European cities existed.  So, as you may expect, the heart of the resort town itself really feels commercial.  The town of Capri lives and breathes tourism... and seems also to be infused with cash from wealthy expats looking for summer homes.  The vibe doesn't really feel authentically Italian... it feels 'fake Italian'.

As an antidote we recommend getting out of town!  Pick a direction and/or a destination and just start walking. There are a myriad of beautiful, well maintained roads and paths that will take you all over the island. The further you walk away from central Capri (and its boat landing below) the more likely you are to find something authentically beautiful and enriching.  There are a lot of places you can walk to, and you could probably even walk the entire length of the island in a full day to see several of them.
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The longer you walk, the less likely you are to run into groups of other tourists... most of whom take the buses and do not walk.  The farther you walk, the more likely you are to engage with locals who actually live and work on Capri.  (More about this later!)

​As we walked we passed by amazing things including the villas of famous British writers, gorgeous landscapes, farmers cultivating lemons on terraced hills, and what was perhaps the world's most beautiful cat!  
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2) Do something OLD!  Really old!

The highlights of Capri are OLD... and famous for a reason.

​There are several you can choose to visit - mainly on your own - including ruins from the old Imperial palaces (including the temples, villas and aqueducts of Emperor Augustus), the Faraglioni, the Grotta Azzura, the small harbor, and lovely Anacapri. 

As long as you're not traveling with tiny children we highly recommend Villa Jovis.  Built by Emperor Tiberius and completed in 27 A.D. this is one of the most preserved ancient Roman imperial villas in Europe. ​
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For a very small fee you can enter and roam through Villa Jovis on your own, even walking around its grounds and through abandoned/destroyed rooms of the ruined palace.  You can step right on the ancient tiled paths, and sit in the rooms of the Emperor, taking in his ridiculously phenomenal view. 

​It's no wonder Tiberius retired here and governed Rome for the last 10 years of his reign from Capri. 
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When we travel we try to speak with locals as often as we can, especially in the native language if we know any part of it.  I recommend this even more when you're in a place as overrun with international tourists as Capri. 

We struck up conversations with everyone we met... from servers in the restaurant to the man offering a clean bathroom at the side of the road for hikers.  ​
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It's easy to understand why Capri natives would have a love/hate relationship with tourists that provide their livelihood.  We've seen so many rude, entitled tourists in action - demanding, condescending, littering.  

We try instead to show respect and ask questions to the people who actually live and work there about the history of the island, and for recommendations about the best parts of it.  You may just get some 'secret' recommendations that will give you a more authentic and special experience!
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4) Buy something lemony!
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If you want to experience truly great Italian food, we suggest staying on the mainland in Sorrento... or even perhaps heading to a smaller town like Massa Lubrense or Sant'Agata.  The restaurants on the main street in Capri are terribly overpriced and, much like California's Disneyland, they have a captive audience.  You are on an island and you are hungry... thus, you will have to eat, even if the quality of the food is not spectacular.  

If price is no problem, there are a few well-reviewed restaurants to be found on the Island... including Ristorante Le Grottelle and Ristorante Le Capannina.  We recommend doing your research in advance and calling for a reservation ahead of time, especially if you plan to travel during a high tourist season.  Just stay away, if you can help it, from the restaurants and cafes that line the center of town.  Who needs to eat a plate of plain pasta for $35 euro each?  It's kind of silly.
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2) Don't buy gelato in Capri.
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The truth is, ferries to and from Capri run essentially on time and the lines of travelers waiting to get back onto the boats are enormous.  Especially because some of the ferry companies sell a single afternoon ticket (expecting that you may  need to take an earlier or later boat) it is entirely possible that the ferry you were planning to take home may be oversold.  It helps to have patience and a little flexibility in your schedule.

​In other words, build in a time buffer or come with a Plan B.

I heard a man in front of me in line for return tickets complaining bitterly to the saleslady that his ferry had left without his family because it was already too full of other passengers.  Despite his litany of reasons why his family HAD to get back to the mainland ASAP (because they stood to miss their connecting transportation to another Italian city and also their nightly hotel room) she was unable to help him.  

His ship had, quite literally, sailed.

After hearing this we made sure to arrive on time to our ferry and even so, the line to enter wrapped halfway around the harbor!  So, unless you are the world's most relaxed family... we highly recommend arriving for your return boat a little early during high season. 

If you expect it to be a hassle and wait patiently at the front of the line, you just may get an air conditioned seat on the ferry home!

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Despite a few small drawbacks to be aware of, Capri is still world-famous for a reason!  It may not be quite exactly the exquisite jewel of my decades-old memories, but it's one of those places you've just got to see!  I'm thrilled to have checked it off of our family bucket list and shown it to my husband and kids.

​With a little planning you can absolutely make the most of your time on this special Italian island!

Click "Play" for Blog Audio Recording! 

In July our family had dinner in Milan with a lovely group of Italians and Americans.

"We're going out to our place by the lake this weekend," one of the Italian husbands (Claudio) confided with a smile.  "With the kids. The weather will be perfect!"

"Oh really?" asked his friend, another native of Milan.  "Where's your place?"

"A little village along the lake, Cannobio," said Claudio, squeezing his wife's hand.

"Cannobio?" my American husband perked up and listened with interest.  "We LOVE Cannobio!"  He proceeded to regale the table with stories of his many long bike rides throughout that part of the Lago Maggiore region, and his special love for the Cannobino River.

"But this is amazing! I cannot believe that a foreigner... an American... can know so much about our little town of Cannobio!" exclaimed Claudio.  "NOBODY knows Cannobio!  You know more than I do!" 

What a fun compliment!  Dear readers, if you don't already know about Cannobio, this is your lucky moment! For all who love rivers, mountains, wild swimming and sumptuous Italian food, Cannobio is a restful vacation dream come true. 

 Only around 5,000 people live in the lovely lakeside town of Cannobio year-round, yet it's a vibrant place visited (especially during summer) by travelers from around the world.

There are several ways to arrive in Cannobio. If you have a car you can arrive from Milan in two hours, circling around beautiful Lago Maggiore with wonderful glimpses of the lake along your drive..

The best way to arrive, though, is by ferry! 

If you're not eager to deal with parking in a small, ancient town with narrow streets, it's perfectly simple to catch a ferry from a larger, more modern town (e.g. Luino) and head straight across the water to Cannobio.
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​We've been so impressed with the ferries that circumnavigate this enormous lake.  Run by "Navigazione Lago Maggiore," they are clean, efficient, on time, and very safe. 

In fact it's so easy and fun to see the lake by ferry, you may end up visiting many more towns than you'd originally planned!  

To get more information about traveling through Lago Maggiore by ferry, or to find out how to book your tickets, click here.  

Have you always wanted to see a 'typical' Italian outdoor market? This is a pretty good place to start.  Held on Sundays between 8am and 13:00pm (that's 1pm for Americans!) the market sets up right next to the water's edge.  An enormous line of well-tended stalls, side by side, offer all of the products you might imagine and many more.

Popular items sold at local Italian markets (including Cannobio) include leather goods, candles, crafts, paintings, beach wear, toys, clothing, jewelry and metalwork, handbags and more.  Artisanal foods are available too, from handmade cheeses to beautiful salami, fresh fruit and vegetables... even fish from the lake!

The market starts right in the heart of town and fans its way down toward the outskirts of Cannobio.  You could spend many pleasant hours shopping, speaking with vendors and looking through the offerings!

Best of all, if you get hungry, an entire row of good quality restaurants with open-air seating are just on the other side of the merchant stalls.  You can unwind and savor your purchases over a glass of vino tinto with your favorite shopping partners!
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​I can pretty much let the photos speak for themselves here. Whether you're a water person, a mountain person,  a camper, an adventurer or someone who just loves spending time in (or photographing) nature... you're going to find yourself glowing while getting to know Cannobio.  

It's hard not to be inspired with this kind of light dancing on the waves; this kind of verdant forest sheltering you!

At one point I commented to my children that I felt like a character in the novel "Heidi".  With stunning mountains towering above us and blackberries to pick along the sides of the trail, I almost yodeled just for the sheer joy of it!

(Okay, maybe I *did* yodel.  Can you blame me?  Just too much joy to keep inside!)   

This special, rare suspension bridge (aka "catwalk") is famous locally as a tourist attraction due to its fun swinging quality.  Touted as similar to a Tibetan bridge, its hanging steps rock from side to side as you walk across its center.  The Ponte Ballerino reminds me very much of a peaceful, small version of the famous Capilano suspension bridge we've enjoyed in the forest outside of Vancouver, B.C. 

The bridge itself has a special story.  It was built to replace a simple ford that had existed long ago to help local people cross the Cannobino River. Sadly, a young woman in her twenties (the daughter of a local man) drowned while trying to cross the ford with a large bale of hay on her back.  A few years later, another woman and her children had to be rescued from the river when a flash flood knocked them into the water.

Thanks to these incidents, 12 local families banded together to fund the building of the suspension bridge that continues to stand today.  Constructed by Albertini di Cannobio, the bridge was partially rebuilt in the 1950s.

Now adorned with love locks, the suspension bridge sways gently from side to side as travelers and locals cross it daily.  It's easy to imagine the romance of standing in the middle of this bridge in the midst of a vibrant sunset... or under the moon and stars. 

Although not widely known outside of Cannobio, this bridge and the magnificent views in both directions are truly worth your time.

​What's not to love about this picture?  If you're headed to the many fantastic swimming holes up the Cannobino River, this is the view that will accompany you along the quiet, well-kept path.

Make sure to gather a handful of tart wild blackberries growing at the side of the walkway... they're delicious!

This exquisite small river begins in the Italian Alps around 7,200 feet of elevation, and winds its way gently down through the Cannobino River Valley. For most of the first twelve miles, its maximum width is only around 33 feet.  However, once past the Church of Sant'Anna it begins to widen into a natural basin over 300 feet wide (and a few meters deep). Ultimately the Cannobino emerges into a wide river bed and then flows through the lakeside town of Cannobio, ending at last in Lago Maggiore.

Generally the Cannobino is gentle and peaceful, but a few times each year there is a sudden rush of water from snowmelt in the local mountains, causing the water to suddenly become powerful, rough and wild.  Due to these rare flash floods, the Cannobino is known as a 'torrente'. 

During the other 98% of the year the Cannobino is a tranquil and beautiful place to spend a lazy, 'chilled out' afternoon. During warmer months travelers and locals alike love to spend their days playing, swimming, relaxing in rubber innertubes and diving into its pure, cool waters. 

Whether traveling alone, with friends or with family, this is a fabulous place to enjoy a hot July or August day!

We recommend calling in advance for reservations to this spectacular, unique restaurant.  Perched next to a jagged, narrow gorge above the Cannobino River (which is many meters deep in this location) the outdoor dining experience at Ristorante Grotto Sant'Anna is almost unparalleled due in large part to its jaw-dropping setting and vistas.

We dined at a stone table beneath a lovely grape arbor.  Since we were among the first reservations of the sunny day, the atmosphere among the servers was very peaceful, attentive and relaxed.  A fabulous moth flitted around our table and spent some time hanging out with us, landing for a time on my son's hand!
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The dishes and desserts turned out to be creative, well-portioned and well made. Dessert was an especially big hit with the children, but the entire meal was solid (photos below). We enjoyed excellent service but noticed that as the restaurant filled up, it took much longer for the food to arrive at other tables.  So, we recommend making your reservation for an early seating!  

"Someday you could bring your future partner here to propose marriage," I remarked to our 12 year old son, The Scientist.  "It's such a romantic location!" (I was only half-teasing, it's that special!)

He, of course, groaned.  "Awww Mom, you know I'm NEVER going to get married!" 
His dad and I tried not to smile.

​"Well, if that's the case," I nodded, "I guess we'll have to return as a family in a few years to celebrate when your Dad and I have our 20 year anniversary!"

Until then, we definitely recommend this dining experience!  Nestled in the hills above the Cannobino, Ristorante Grotto Sant'Anna is a hidden treasure!  

​A word to the wise: Due to outstanding reviews and an unbeatable location, it's almost impossible to get a table at this restaurant without calling in advance.  (We know this firsthand; we've found out the hard way that you can't just show up unannounced. They've absolutely turned us away in the past... with no availability for a week!)

A favorite Aventura family pastime! 

​Wild swimming refers to outdoor swimming in pristine natural spots that lack infrastructure AND manmade pollution. There are entire guides devoted to wild swimming in various European countries, and my husband Señor Aventura has made a point of buying all of them. He and the children absolutely delight in wild swimming.

As it turns out, the Grotto Sant'Anna is a well-known and beloved destination for wild swimmers!

Just below the Church of Sant'Anna, a large natural pool flows out from the narrow gorge and down toward the much wider river basin.  As swimmers glide through the basin and approach the gorge, the water suddenly becomes extremely deep and cold. 

On hot summer days, many youth (and fit adults) spend time diving into these cool, deep waters from high up on the lofty cliffs towering above.  

For the 'adventurous' set - for example, my husband and sons - going even further to explore the narrow, dark river gorge itself is delightful too!  

"The water was the coldest I have ever experienced!" confessed The Scientist with a glowing smile as he emerged from the gorge.  "It was freezing, Mom!  There was basically no light because the stone walls of the gorge were so high.  Suddenly we saw a really big frog!  It was bouncing along the river, and it was brown! It was croaking!"

"Mom, I touched it!" crowed Soccer Dude gleefully.  "I touched the big frog!"  Their eyes were big like saucers as they described exploring inside the gorge with their dad.  

Later, Soccer Dude and his father took turns diving off of the high cliffs.  They emerged from the water completely exhilarated.  I was amazed by my courageous ten year old son who clambered up the massive cliffs to dive again and again.  He certainly has the heart and soul of a bold adventurer!

If you, too, enjoy a great adventure, look no further! 
​Wild swimming and diving at the Grotto Sant'Agata will make for a perfect summer's day!

Pictured below:
L- Soccer Dude prepares to dive from halfway up the cliffs (center of frame)
R- Soccer Dude emerges beaming from the water after his huge dive!

If you were to pick up an international newspaper today, you'd read headlines about 750,000 Catalan citizens protesting in Barcelona yesterday. They are upset about the arrests of nine of their regional government leaders, eight of whom are still jailed in Madrid.
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As someone who has lived in this beautiful place for nearly a year and a half, it is impossible to witness firsthand this kind of spirit and passion, and not be moved with some kind of emotion. 

"What the Spanish government is doing right now is unimaginable," frowns Enric, a Catalan friend from the gym.  "I am not Independista, my family is very Spanish.  However, putting these politicians in jail is not right!  It reminds me too much of our history and the days of living under Franco. This is a stain on our history."
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"The situation is ridiculous," a British friend who has lived and worked in Catalunya for 27 years confided recently.  "Taking political prisoners and holding them without bail in a so-called democracy is ridiculous. Yet nobody in the world is talking about it! Nobody in Europe is talking about it.  No matter how you feel about the independence movement, pro OR con, jailing these people is simply wrong!"

She then went on to tell me that while British to the core, her heart is with Catalunya. 

"I am not Spanish," she confided.  "I am British. I would never, never give up my British passport. My family are there. But the people who have welcomed me and filled my life for 30 years... they are Catalan.  I truly love the Catalan people.  This is my home."

Since she is not a Spanish citizen, my friend cannot vote. She has no voice whatsoever in what's happening all around her... to her... and possibly to her job! ​
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"What about the three quarters of a million expatriates living in Barcelona?" asked our German doctor friend rhetorically, on another recent night.  "We cannot vote.  We cannot express ourselves.  Yet, we live here.  We work here.  Our jobs are on the line. We pay taxes and raise our children.  We contribute!  Everything happening affects us keenly."  

This is a common theme right now. 

My twelve year old son, The Scientist, tells me that one of his best friends at school may now have to move to Italy next year with his family.  The father's company may relocate their headquarters there due to unrest in Barcelona. 

My boy feels so sad and frustrated about this turn of events.  He's finally made some great friends in Spain and now the closest one he has here could be leaving.  It's amazing how adult politics can rip apart two twelve year old buddies, who would have spent some quality time growing up together.  These kids are caught up as innocent bystanders in a political war.  

"I don't want him to go, Mom," The Scientist sighs with a deep crease in the center of his forehead.  "It's not fair." 
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It's so hard to say what will happen next.  Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy has called for new elections in Catalunya on 21 December, to create a new government.  The 24 million dollar question is this:  What if the Catalan people vote, again, for an independista government?  What if a majority of voters - this time in full accord with Spanish law - again select officials who favor independence?

What will Rajoy and the EU do then?  It will thrust everyone into a real pickle.
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Catalan President Puigdemont is banking on that possibility.  He fled to Belgium shortly after he declared Catalan independence and the Spanish government enacted Article 155, taking over the Catalan government. 

With a small group of fellow leaders, Puigdemont traveled to Belgium to request a fair trial which he felt he could not receive in Spain.

Orders for their arrest have been issued by the Spanish supreme court and they are each accused of embezzlement, sedition and rebellion. Puigdemont turned himself in voluntarily to the government of Belgium, and gave them his passport.  He has been released on bail in Belgium while a Belgian judge decides whether to execute the Spanish arrest warrant.
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Meanwhile many other Catalan government officials were indeed arrested and put in a Madrid jail without bail. 

One of them, Carme Forcadell (now the former president of the Catalan Parliament) had to pay 150,000 euros this week to make bail and secure her own release from the prison of Alcalá Meco in Madrid. Her passport has been taken by the Spanish government and she must report weekly to a Catalan court, or before the Supreme Court if a date is named.  Her bond was paid by the National Association of Catalunya (ANC) with money from a 'solidarity fund'. 
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For months now our family has tried hard to stay neutral through all of this.  We have many friends on both sides of the issue - adults and children.  We admire and respect them all, and see their differing points of view.

Yet we have also been personally affected by the political climate here in Barcelona in many ways.

Here is a small example. Last Wednesday our kids could not go to school due to a strike. The strike was not supposed to affect the local schools, which were open for the day. However because there were protests all over Catalunya that affected the transportation systems, the children could not physically arrive at class.

"I really need to go to school today Mom," The Scientist insisted.  "I have a math exam!"  

Yet he waited for over an hour in the morning standing at the metro station to get on a train to school and though there was a train sitting right in front of him the whole time, it never left.  Finally he gave up in dismay and came home to study.

Later we learned that protestors had physically seated themselves on train tracks all over the city, making it impossible for the trains to run.  In fact, so they did this all over Catalunya and even on the tracks around Barcelona's major trains station, Estació de Sants, thereby disrupting regional and international train travel as well. 
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My husband planned to drive the other two children to their school, since their normal bus service had been halted for the day.  When he looked at Google Maps in the morning though, every freeway was  a sea of red.  Cars were not moving at all.  The wait in any direction lasted hours.  He tried to take the kids to school by train, but as I mentioned before, the trains were not running.

At last, they left the station and consoled themselves with chocolate croissants on the way home.

I'd had three appointments scheduled that day, and had to walk for over an hour to get to one of them. At my doctor's office a woman came in urgently with a medical emergency (kidney stones) and the poor thing couldn't take either a subway or taxi due to the strike! I tried to imagine that poor lady walking in agony to receive emergency medical help and it made me feel angry on her behalf.

Our kids were so bored and miserable at home, wishing to be at school with their friends and teachers.  By 3pm all five of us felt full to the brim with frustration. ​
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Of course, these are small inconveniences and we have no right, really, to feel angry or upset.  It isn't our country or our political history, and we are not the ones who will have to live with the results for the next several hundred years.  California is just a flight away, anytime we decide we need a break from all of this.

So we try to breathe and roll with it, appreciating all of the amazing things about living in Catalunya during this unusual time in its history.  ​
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It's a credit to the city and its calm, measured police force that these massive, million-person protests can go off twice a week without violence or injuries... or even major arrests of the protestors. 

​Even more, it's a credit to the strength and goodness of ALL the Catalan people (both independistas and pro-Spanish unity) that they can wear their hearts on their sleeves in front of the news cameras of the world like this, and continue to try to keep a positive attitude when so much around them feels uncertain and unknown.

They wake up, go to work, take care of their families, and then go to protest for what they believe in.  You have to admire that kind of passion and grit.

What will happen?  We have no sense of it.  As foreigners we try only to understand what is happening around us.  Every day we ask questions, seek more information, and try to learn from the people we meet.

Day by day, along with the rest of the world, we wait to see how all of this tumult will end.
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“What will happen now, Mom?” he asked.

“I’m honestly not sure. Article 155 is a very powerful part of the Spanish constitution that states that the government of Spain can suspend home rule of any of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities… if they feel that that region does not follow the law of the Constitution or attacks the general interests of the country as a whole.  So, Spanish Prime Minister Rajoy may decide to use Article 155 and take over the government of Catalunya.”

“Wow.”

“Yeah, I know.  It’s actually never been used before! It’s an extreme measure meant for extreme situations.”

“I wonder what Rajoy will say!” remarked The Scientist, who at age 12 is becoming more and more interested in local and international politics. 
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The next day we found out the answer.  We’d just arrived in Mallorca for a long weekend and my husband and I were unpacking upstairs in our AirBNB when The Scientist began to call my name from downstairs.

“Mom!” he yelled, “Mom!” 

He came bounding up the stairs.  

“Yes?”

“It’s Rajoy!  He’s on TV, he’s going to respond to Puigdemont!  Come and watch!!!”

I hurried downstairs in time to catch most of the speech with The Scientist perched on one side of me and Soccer Dude on the other.

Prime Minister Rajoy spoke in Spanish and was much more easy for me to understand. His tone was forceful but calm, and his words were reasoned but not conciliatory.
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Rajoy began by stating that two pro-independence parliamentary groups (who did not obtain a majority of votes in the last elections to the Catalan parliament) were acting against the Spanish Constitution, the law, and the will of a majority of Catalan people. 

He condemned this as a provocative act designed to break the law.  He denied the legality of the independence and announced that it would have zero effect upon Catalunya or Spain. 

“Those who wish to separate and divide Catalonia** from Spain must know that they will not succeed,” he said, “and they are not going to do so because it is against the majority of Catalans and Spaniards as a whole.  They are faced with a law and a government ready to enforce it.”

Rajoy then emphasized, “Everyone… I repeat… is subject to the law and the rulings of the courts.”  He confirmed his commitment to defend Spanish democracy with “firmness, determination and with the instruments provided to us by law.”  ​
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The Spanish High Court also banned Catalan chief of police Josep Lluís Trapero from leaving Spain and took his passport as they investigate his actions with respect to the 1 October referendum.  

More arrests are expected anytime, and as of now (Wednesday morning) local papers are announcing a Spanish takeover of the Catalan government.  
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The more my husband and I talk with our Catalan friends (both the independistas and those who are pro-unity), the more we understand that their situation has a profoundly emotional flavor and seems a lot like a crazy American holiday dinner.  

“Madrid just doesn’t understand us…” the independistas sigh dramatically, sort-of like your middle-aged aunt who is considering filing for divorce after 25 years of marriage.  “We give and we give (money) and what does Madrid give us in return????  Nothing!”  
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“That region needs to learn respect,” snaps Madrid’s aged mother (the Spanish Civil Guard).  “She thinks she’s too good for my son!”  

​(I’ve actually read just this week that people in Madrid are saying that Catalunya needs a good ‘slap’ right now to knock some sense back into the territory.  Yikes!)

The European Union even plays its role as the family patriarch sitting at the head of the holiday table… as Catalunya’s wealthy father-in-law who hired her years ago to work in his big, successful firm when she and his son were newly married. 

The EU is listening warily to the whole divorce conversation as it unfolds, without saying much... carefully polishing his pocket watch… unsure deep-down whether to fire Catalunya if she goes ahead and files for divorce, or keep her on with the firm in spite of his son, because she’s been a brilliant worker. ​
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Despite all of the tension around the Spanish family table right now, most of our friends here in Barcelona seem to be waiting on and expecting a relatively happy ending to this episode.  They are waiting for the moment in the story, perhaps, when the entire family bonds over a bittersweet memory of their ancestors who died in the Spanish Civil War. The moment when they make a toast in honor of their grandparents, shake hands and wipe tears from their eyes.

Everyone seems to anticipate an ending that is perhaps mildly disappointing for all... OR a cliffhanger where you will have to wait for the sequel to find out what happens (and the sequel is truly never very exciting).  

​Nobody we’ve spoken to in Catalunya seems to expect this situation to become a tragedy.  
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To our Catalan friends, this ‘independence referendum’ narrative is destined to become a family classic… or a family headache… rather than a suspenseful horror story.  We really, really hope they are right!

“Eduardo seems to think nothing’s going to change,” remarked my husband after he returned from the morning drop off chat at the bus stop today.  “He seemed very ‘tranquilo’ about the whole thing.”

“Is he concerned about the big banks leaving?”

“Well, that’s not really such a big deal.  Nobody is losing their jobs.  They’ve just changed the address of their main business operations to other territories… but business will continue as usual here.”

“What did Francesc say?”  

“He wasn’t at the bus stop today… maybe his son is ill… but that other Catalan dad who works in Britain was there and he seemed quite fed up with the situation.”

“Oh really?”

“Yes, he said that this has gone too far and needs to stop before things get out of control and it makes a severe impact on his homeland.”  

“Well, I read that President Puigdemont plans to declare Catalan independence tomorrow!  Do they think there will be a violent response?”

“So far, nobody seems too worried.  I guess we’ll see!”
​

As outsiders we watch and listen. We wonder privately how much further the independence movement can push its envelope before Madrid cracks down and sends in tanks and troops.  Already 20 convoys of troops were sent in earlier in the week to help ‘support’ the Spanish federal police and Spanish Civil Guard who have remained in town since the October 1 referendum.
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However, this week, the Spanish flags have come back and were certainly out in full-force this weekend when two massive protests (called ‘manifestacións’) in favor of Spanish unity took place in Barcelona and Madrid.  
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The unity turnout was enormous, with estimates ranging from 350,000 to 1,000,000 people in attendance in Barcelona alone. Everyone was draped in Spanish flags, singing and chanting. Some people were even weeping.

On another day, the Podemos political party organized a large protest called “¿Hablamos?” (Shall We Talk?) and 10,000 protesters came to this manifestación dressed completely in white, to represent peace and conversation between the two sides. 
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Meanwhile Puigdemont presses forward with his determination (and that of his government) to make a unilateral declaration of Catalan independence.  Large companies based in Barcelona continue to convene board meetings day after day and many are choosing to leave the territory based on fears of instability that may soon overtake the region after the declaration of independence.
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Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy has made it clear that Spain will NOT accept the move for independence, and reserves the right to invoke an article of the Spanish constitution that has never been used before - Article 155, the so-called ‘nuclear option’.

Article 155 is sometimes likened to an atomic bomb because it would legally allow the government of Spain to forcibly take over the current government of Catalunya and run the entire region until a new government can be elected.  

“Spain is indivisible,” says Rajoy, and there is more than a small threat in those simple words.
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I never thought of ‘indivisible’ as a threat before now, but I guess sometimes a threat and a promise can share the same body. My husband and I have enormous sympathy for the Catalan people and yet we also see and understand Rajoy’s point.  

He is the prime minister of a democratic nation, an indivisible nation. It’s his job to keep democracy functioning, decisions of the Supreme Court followed, and elections legal.

The Catalan independence referendum of 1 October was not a legal election.  It truly lacks legitimacy.  Not only was it declared illegal by the Supreme Court of Spain before the vote, but the vote itself was not run cleanly. There was no independent oversight to make sure that it was run properly and votes cast correctly. 
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​Rubber bullets? Tear gas? Striking old ladies with batons until they bleed from the head? Ripping little children out of their parents arms? Breaking women's fingers?  REALLY?

One of the reasons we chose to move to Barcelona was the wonderful and pervasive feeling of peace and tranquility in this incredible metropolis.

I've spent time in lot of big cities during my life... Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Dallas, New York, Boston, Vancouver, Tijuana, London, Paris, Rome, Madrid... just to name a few.  

Yet none of them have ever felt quite as safe, clean and beautiful as we have always found Barcelona to be.  From my first weekend journey to Barcelona in 1995 to our official move here in 2016, I'd traveled to Barcelona at least six times before we moved here.  Every single time I left with the same feeling about the city.  
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To me, Barcelona has been a vibrant, living symbol of the very best a human life has to offer: Peace. Energy. Joy. Beauty. Excitement. Culture. Cuisine. Music. Creativity. History. Fútbol. Passion! 

So if you'd told me back in June 2016 as I packed up a house full of cardboard boxes in California to move to Spain with my husband and kids that I would soon be experiencing a major terrorist attack AND living in a country flirting with civil war where local voting was met with police brutality, I would have found that very hard to believe.

Yet somehow, this is where we're at today.
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What the heck was going on?

For readers who have never had the pleasure of traveling here, Barcelona is the capital city of Catalunya... an important and prosperous region of Spain. 

Yesterday, over two million Catalan people from cities all over the region headed to the polls at local schools to vote in a referendum about whether or not Catalunya should become its own independent nation.  

As in, get a divorce.  Leave Spain and strike out alone!  Try to join the European Union as its own country.
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In the end, 90% of those voters chose independence.

​The Catalans who voted yesterday are operating on the principle of self-determination... a concept based on the ideals of equal rights and equal opportunity. According to self-determination, people have the right to freely choose their sovereignty and international political status without any interference.

"Why do the Catalans want to divorce Spain?" my friends at home have asked in confusion. "Why aren't they happy?"

First off, not all Catalans actually feel this way. Until yesterday, the opinions here were sharply divided... about 50/50.  Just as many Catalan people wanted to stay in Spain, as wanted to go.
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In the mid-1800s there was a resurgence of interest and pride in the Catalan language and cultural traditions.  Out of this 'Catalan Renaissance' came a nationalist movement, with people eager to once again have their own nation. This feeling persisted and Catalan nationalists came closest in the 1920s and early 1930s under the leadership of Francesc Macià. He was the leader of a pro-independence political party and ultimately became the head of the Catalan Republic until he died in 1933. The Catalan Republic lasted for less than 6 years from 1932 until it was crushed by General Francisco Franco in 1938.

Under Franco both the autonomy of Catalunya and the Generalitat were abolished. During Franco's nearly 40 year rule as a dictator, the Catalan people had no voice or independence and were not allowed to teach their own language to their children or pass down their cultural traditions.

When Franco died in 1975 Spain moved to restore democracy. Autonomy was restored and Catalunya has benefited greatly from autonomy ever since... but there has been this ongoing issue over language, culture and Catalan identity.  It has remained a very tricky and important issue for most Catalan people.
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HOWEVER. Approximately three million Catalans did not vote yesterday.  Mainly they stayed home from the referendum because the Spanish government stated that this was not a legitimate democratic election.

​They felt that their votes would be invalid or even illegal, so why bother? No European countries had supported the referendum, or agreed to honor its results.  Many other Catalans felt (at least until yesterday) some loyalty and connection to Madrid and the rest of Spain.
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"I didn't vote yesterday because I felt it was not a legal election that would be internationally recognized," explained our friend Eduard* this morning at the school bus stop. "That said, I do believe that Catalans deserve to vote what is in our hearts for our future. I estimate that 90% of Catalan people felt very strongly yesterday that they should have the right to vote - yes or no.  Based on the violence of the Spanish Civil Guard toward the voters, I will tell you that 99.9% of the Catalan people are very angry and upset about how the Spanish police have treated our citizens."

Eduard was referring to the violent actions taken by the Spanish Police and Civil Guard yesterday toward peaceful Catalan citizens trying to vote. Some Catalans were shot in the face and head with rubber bullets; thrown down the stairs; had bones broken; and were even clubbed in the head.
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"This is NOT Spain," agreed our other friend Francesc*, who DID vote for independence yesterday.  "This is not how we act here. We are a civilized people."

Eduard frowned and shook his head. "My friend from Chile called me yesterday and said to me, 'What, is Spain becoming Venezuela now?' My friend from Finland called too. It is very concerning.  For the first time, I am worried." 

The independence referendum of 1 October was called many months ago by the leader of the Catalan people Carles Puigdemont, a former journalist and mayor of Girona who in 2016 was named 130th president of the Generalitat of Catalunya.  He is the first-ever president of Catalunya to refuse to take an oath of loyalty to the Spanish Constitution and Spanish King Felipe VI.
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​Before becoming prime minister, Rajoy was a longtime head of the Opposition party in Spain, with a strong focus on economics.  He discredited socialist leaders as not understanding how to manage money and blamed them for Spain's terrible crisis during the global economic downturn. Although he campaigned on financial integrity and security, since his election Rajoy has been accused multiple times of financial corruption. He has currently been the Prime Minister since 2011.

Rajoy says that it is his duty and the duty of his government to uphold the law and 'preserve the integrity of the Spanish state'.  In other words, he says he is defending democracy itself. He himself is currently the head of a minority government and it could topple if the fallout from this referendum gets bad enough.

Rajoy authorized the Spanish Civil Guard to enter Catalunya and use proportionate measures to try and nullify the Catalan referendum. 
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"Proportionate?" scoffs Eduard. "Proportionate is when I hit you and you hit me back. Proportionate is not hitting defenseless old women who are sitting peacefully on the ground in the head with police batons... or throwing people down the stairs!"

Catalans would not agree then, that Rajoy's actions and the actions of the police, were reasonable and peaceful. 

Despite their best efforts though, the Spanish police and civil guard were not able to stop the Catalan referendum from taking place.

Not that they didn't try!!!  Really hard!!!  Here are some of the things the government of Spain did in the past two weeks to try to stop yesterday's vote. It's like a laundry list of oppression:
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• Arrested the democratically elected leaders of the Catalan regional government
• Accused the Catalan leaders of a coup against the state for wanting to hold an election
• Sent thousands of troops by sea to Barcelona where they were stationed in cruise ships off the port
• Confiscated over 10 million ballots 
• Invaded the Center for Telecommunication and Information Technology to suspend services that could help people to vote online
• Launched online attacks against internet voting sites and applications
• Shut down more than half of all polling places using physical force
• Threatened expensive tickets and prosecution for people continuing to hold the vote
• Confiscated many sealed boxes of votes
• Smashed up polling stations
• Used violence and police brutality to threaten peaceful voters and intimidate others from voting - over 800 injuries, some of which required surgery!
• Announced that the Spanish police and Civil Guard will remain in Catalunya indefinitely ('As long as is necessary')

What a terrible mistake.

From the perspective of an outsider... an American... someone from a country where violence has too often been used to solve problems, there must be a better way than this!  Oppression and brutality can only lead to more anger.  It will surely fan the flames of the independence movement, not snuff them out.

​Yesterday I read an article in The Atlantic about how the Spanish Government misunderstood the independence movement. I highly, highly recommend this piece and think everyone should read it.  Especially Mariano Rajoy!  

Abraham Maslow once said, "I suppose it is tempting, if the only tool you have is a hammer, to treat everything as if it were a nail."  Apparently the Spanish government felt its best tool was a military force at its disposal, and they have hammered this delicate Catalan problem with brute force rather than intelligent finesse.

This is not only terrible for Rajoy's PR (and that of Spain as a democracy) but it was so unnecessary.  Six months ago I didn't know more than one or two Catalan people that truly wanted independence.  They just wanted the politicians to talk and hammer out a financial compromise.  ​
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Today, Catalunya is united on the issue of independence more than perhaps ever before. That's what happens when you hurt old women and little children in front of a thousand cell phones taking video. By acting from a place of fear rather than faith in democracy, Rajoy himself has lit the match for the explosion that may ultimately shake all of Spain.
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Our family has no skin in this game, or at least, very little of it.  As Americans living abroad on a temporary basis for an exciting life adventure, it is easy to see the perspective of both sides. I truly understand why Spain wants to continue embracing Catalunya as an essential part of itself, and I also understand why much of Catalunya wants to be its own nation.
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The heartbreaking thing (as I see it from an outside perspective) is the loss of the beautiful Catalan sense of security and innocence in one single day. 

​We've gone from Catalan students singing, proudly waving flags and banners, handing out flowers and taking classes from civil rights leaders about non-violent protest... to shocked and angry citizens of all ages rubbing their eyes in disbelief, after witnessing soldiers from their own country attack their neighbors and friends over a peaceful vote.

After disbelief comes anger.
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I feel their loss keenly, this loss of innocence. 

Living in Barcelona had been a breath of fresh air for our family during this past year, like a heavy mantle was lifted that we didn't even know we were sitting under. We loved living in a place where people genuinely trust the Mossos (local police), children are truly safe on the street, people of all ages felt incredibly free to protest without fear of repercussion, and two people with strongly differing political opinions could still live harmoniously in apartments side by side, proudly displaying their different flags, and yet share a coffee in the morning.
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Yesterday I watched that same yoke descend upon the shoulders of the Catalan people I now know and love.  This morning I saw the same sorrow, fear and uncertainty in their eyes that we know too well in other parts of the world.  

"I don't understand it," our Catalan friends are saying. "I did not believe it could be like this. Not here."  They look dazed, crushed... and angry.

President Puigdemont is on the cusp of declaring Catalan independence... perhaps within 72 hours. Madrid will surely not accept (or even acknowledge) this decision.

I fear that instead of independence we are entering a time of Catalan instability... and possibly, greater tragedy to come.