​What do we hear on a sunny March morning in the Portuguese countryside?

Chirping!  Lots and lots of chirping from nests of swallows just feet away from the balcony where we sip coffee.  At least eight nests full of tiny baby birds are chattering while their excited, attentive parents coast nearby on the morning breezes.
​

Adjacent to the AirBNB we are renting sits a tiny church whose bells chime once every fifteen minutes between eight AM and ten PM.  It's topped by a surprisingly adorable shiny black rooster with red painted feathers.  

​If the health of a town can be measured by the loveliness of its church, it’s easy to see that Odeceixe is doing just fine.  The exterior is in great condition with a new red tiled roof and beautiful white paint lined in gray.

Just behind the church on the hill behind the church sits a tiny graveyard... its carefully tended gravestones naming those who lived and loved here in the past.  ​
​

Looking further across the valley beyond the white houses, we see rolling green fields and a small winding river making its way out to the sea.  Its water is clean and tranquil, no trash or litter anywhere.  

This is a theme.  Even in the smallest towns we’ve visited, cleanliness is paramount.  Whether rich or poor, Portuguese people take great pride in keeping their towns and villages clean.  

(In Lisbon, a metropolis just 2.5 hours away, an elderly granny yells at our 12 year old son in Portuguese.

"I don't know what she was saying exactly," he explains, "But she was pointing toward the trash can so I went and threw my bag away.") 

What will we do today? We wonder aloud in the unhurried fashion of people on vacation; people who have - for the first time in months - slept in.

Shall we walk down the long trail to the Praia de Odeceide, the rugged beach with black hued cliffs edging up to the Atlantic?  Should we head into the mountains to determine if that unusual shape on the horizon is, in fact, an ancient castle or the ruins of a church?  How about a road trip south to explore more of this spectacular Algarve region?

Or we could just linger here in the Portuguese sunshine a bit longer before heading out to find a perfect lunch of fresh fish, cheese, olives, wine and crusty bread? 

​Yes, please.  Yes to everything.

​

​Our family discovered Playa de la Concha in the Basque city of San Sebastián for the first time in 2014 when the Aventura children were still tiny.  Little Angel, just four years old, flung off her sandals and ran with delight across its golden sand toward the bay.  

"I LOVE THIS BEACH, MOMMY!" she trilled.

We'd flown from California for a home exchange in Biarritz, France just on the opposite side of the Spanish border. To our surprise and disappointment it was gray and rainy in southern France every single day.  The house was damp and dark. Its bathroom towels smelled mildly of mold.

"Let's drive across the border," suggested my husband Señor Aventura.  "We may find better weather in Spain."

"That's hard to believe." I wrinkled my forehead, trying to imagine how driving just thirty minutes south could make a significant difference in the weather.

Lo and behold, he was right!  As we made the easy, scenic drive between Biarritz and San Sebastián the clouds actually seemed to part and then gently melt away. 
​

We ended up returning across the border four more times during that two week stay in Biarritz... even to celebrate The Scientist's July birthday.  

"I like it here at this beach so much," he confided.  "I want to spend my birthday in San Sebastián and go to that amusement park on top of the big mountain!"
​

​
Whether you arrive by boat or swim there you'll be charmed by Santa Clara's unusual lighthouse, a terrace bar where you can order tasty beverages while looking out across the bay full of little white boats and picnic tables where you can enjoy a true feast!

​
Monte Urgull

The view of Playa de La Concha and Isla Santa Clara from the top of Monte Urgull is nothing short of awe-inspiring. You will not regret the short, steep hike up the mountain to achieve this world class panorama!
​

While at the top take a brief tour of the Castillo de La Mota fortress dating back to the 12th century AD. It was rebuilt many times as a defensive base to help protect San Sebastián from various invasions (mainly by the French) over many centuries. ​
​

San Sebastián takes pride in its annual regattas held once a year at the end of the summer in the Bahía de La Concha. 

Inspired by a historic tradition of fishing boats racing each other to shore to sell their catch, these races began formally in 1879 as part of an annual festival and have continued ever since.  For the first two Sundays in September, eight boats race to the finish line.

Originally wooden fishing boats were raced but over the past 130 years the competition modernized and now racing boats are made of kevlar and carbon fiber.

An annual women's regatta was launched in 2008, and its excited audience is steadily growing!

For a few days the sands of La Concha and the nearby boardwalks function as a stadium from which onlookers with binoculars can spectate and rejoice.  ​Visitors flock from all over Europe to cheer the boats on from the beach.  This event is sometimes called the 'Olympics of Rowing'.  Such fun! 

​
La Concha at Night

​Lastly, a little romance...

By night the Playa de La Concha is lit by gorgeous gaslamp streetlights that line its raised boardwalk.  Whether you stroll barefoot under the stars on the sparkling sand or above it on the promenade, there's something more than magical about the Bahía de La Concha in the moonlight.

For these reasons (and a million more) we highly recommend visiting the Playa de La Concha in San Sebastián!  
​
​

My husband and I first glimpsed Cala de Deià while watching a TV miniseries based on John Le Carré's suspenseful novel... "The Night Manager."  In one scene an intense confrontation takes place at an outdoor family luncheon held right above the sea.  This scene is particularly scary because it juxtaposes the insanely idyllic backdrop with a brutal armed invasion. As a viewer, you feel taken off guard and vulnerable while watching!  

Not long after we watched the miniseries Señor Aventura explained to me that the scary scene had been filmed at a Mallorca beach he'd like to visit someday, the Cala de Deià.  

So, on our first family trip to Mallorca we made this beach a family priority! 

Thickly wooded pine trees overlook it and you actually have to take quite a hike down a long paved road to reach this secluded spot.
​

As it turns out there is no sand at Cala de Deià.  It's a tiny beach made of shingles, pebbles, rocks and gravel - all of which are surrounded by high cliffs.  ​
​

There are really two main attractions at this beach.  First, the water is extremely clear!  Visibility is great and you can see fish swimming around even in the shallow areas.  We noticed plenty of people with snorkeling gear at Cala de Deià.
​

The other attraction is the restaurant to the left of the beach "Ca's Patro March" which hovers above the water on the side of the cliff.  With luck you can enjoy a wonderful afternoon there feasting on fresh seafood and traditional Mallorcan dishes, along with wine, gelato and homemade dessert.  (Reservations recommended.)  ​
​

​Honestly, this is an exceptionally romantic spot!  If you happen to be there without three children, that is... 

"Someday we should come back here, just the two of us!" smiled Señor Aventura.

Worth it for the views alone, the food is also quite tasty at the oceanfront restaurant and we found the service to be very friendly and accepting... even though we arrived at sunset with cranky, tired kids who were 'starving!' after their swim in the sea. Two hours later our family left with full tummies and everyone smiling!!!
​

The sandy part of the beach is very small with some large rocks dividing it into sections. During summer months the beach can become so crowded that there is literally nowhere left to sit!  For this reason we recommend experiencing the Caló des Moro in the Spring (Semana Santa) or during the Fall (October) to fully enjoy the exquisite beauty of the place without the hassle of big crowds.  

We smiled to hear so many different languages being spoken along the beach... German, French, Spanish, English, Dutch and even Portuguese!  Everyone together, just chilling out and enjoying the day!
​

Later during our dusky walk back to the car we discovered that there is another nearby beach (Cala S'Almunia) very nearby... but it is more of a beach for divers and less for swimmers.  Much less beautiful!  
​

A word of caution - nude bathing is allowed at both of these beaches and our children got a good giggle out of seeing an elderly couple walking without clothing on the beach. 

"Look Mommy! That old lady is naked!" laughed Little Angel before I could shush her.

"Oh my gosh!  Look away!" shrieked her brothers who were simultaneously horrified and delighted. 

Also, it's a good idea to keep in mind that neither of these wild beaches have facilities (e.g. no bathrooms or restaurants) as they are both well off of the beaten path.  We recommend bringing in your lunch along with anything you may need for personal hygiene. Sadly, neither Caló des Moro or Cala S'Almunia is wheelchair accessible. 

However if you're okay with these realities and still looking for a great outdoor adventure, we give the Caló des Moro top marks!  It's one of the top three most beautiful beaches I've ever visited in person!
​

​Historically speaking, croissants were invented in Turkey or Austria... but who can deny that the French have absolutely perfected them?  Start your day with a leisurely stroll to one of the boulangeries on every single block of Le Marais.  So many options! 

​You can purchase fresh homemade croissants, pain au chocolat, gorgeous raisin rolls, tiny quiches... or warm baguettes straight out of the oven! Should you choose to dip a flaky, buttery treat in your mug of café au lait, who are we to say "Non"? ​
​
​
2) Take in breathtaking city views from the top of Sacré-Coeur
​

Now that you've fueled up on pastry deliciousness, challenge yourself with a brisk climb! Charge up the 270 steps up to the basilica of the Sacré-Coeur church which sits on top of Montmartre... you'll be richly rewarded by the view!  Many people spend hours relaxing on these steps with their friends or lovers, whispering together and dreaming in a way that is perhaps only possible in Paris at sunset.

(Not up to climbing today? No worries, you can catch a funicular too!) 

The views of Paris from this vantage point are unsurpassed as this is the highest point in the entire city. Seeing the street grid of this well-organized metropolis from the top of Montmartre will also give you a much better grasp on the 'lay of the land' as you begin your special day. 
​

Don't forget to peek inside of the Sacré-Coeur church itself while visiting but do keep one hand on your wallet as this is a very popular area for travelers and pickpockets alike!  

Finishing touches were put on the Sacré-Coeur basilica in 1914, just as World War I was beginning. The name means "Basilica of the Sacred Heart" and this lovely white building was consecrated in 1919 after the end of that awful war. At just over 100 years young, Montmartre's Sacré-Coeur and its vistas will inspire you!

​
3) Wander through the Musée D'Orsay for a few perfect hours
​

Now that you've breakfasted and gotten some exercise and inspiration, why not see what all the fuss is about?  For only 12 euro (kids under 18 are free) you can spend an hour or an entire afternoon expanding your soul in this gorgeous museum on the banks of the River Seine.  

Built in 1900 inside of a former railway station, this museum offers a quality of light and spaciousness in a way that other museums rarely manage to achieve.  Featuring a very diverse collection of paintings and sculptures alongside an incredible group of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works, there is plenty to see and experience within its walls.
​

The Musée D'Orsay offers a top-of-the-line experience.  The best of Monet, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet, Degas, Van Gogh and Seurat can all be found here... along with countless other priceless pieces!

Reservations are recommended at this traditional, welcoming French restaurant in Les Halles. Once featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" show, the special brasserie La Tour Montlhéry- Chez Denise is authentic and worthwhile. With an ample chalkboard menu full of hearty food, sumptuous sauces and excellent wines, you will not be disappointed! ​
​

The men who run the restaurant may seem a little bit gruff at first but warm up quickly, especially if you try to speak even a little French.  By the end of your meal it will be all smiles and laughter!

"Can we get Escargot?" begged Soccer Dude, and so we did... ordering snails, salad, beef with bacon, and three types of fabulous fish. Wine comes by the bottle or the carafe and freshly baked bread with butter is brought to the table in plentiful baskets. ​
​

Created by two Italian friends, Cristiano Sereni and Paolo Benassi, Amorino is not your every-day ice cream... although you can definitely eat it every day!

Careful to use only the highest quality ingredients in their original gelatos and sorbets, Amorino offers options for guests who prefer an organic and/or vegan lifestyle. 

Eight year-old daughter Little Angel and I were both enthralled by the creation of the signature Amorino ice cream cone, which involves gently forming petals of gelato in the shape of a multi-colored flower with a special kind of scooping tool.  I'll be honest, I ordered the 'Chantilly' whipped cream just because I wanted to see how it would look on top of my ice cream flower!  (Didn't hurt that it was sooooo tasty too!)
​

As people who pride ourselves on being gelato 'experts' we were blown away not just by the look of this dessert but also by its quality, texture and taste.  The Amorino caramel flavor is the best I've ever tried... even in Italy! What a great way to wrap up a perfect day.