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The Adventure Awaits!

Welcome!  We can't wait to take you to with us around the world!
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Look for upcoming posts by The Aventura Kids about cities and countries we've visited together, plus practical tips from Mom to help parents plan their own family adventures!  Dad may even check in from time to time with cool historical facts and/or bike routes!

Four Lifestyle Differences Between California & Spain

1/18/2019

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The Aventura children buy a snack at a typical Spanish bakery.

​People on both sides of the Atlantic often ask me to describe the biggest differences we've found between living in California and living in Spain. With just six months left before we leave this beautiful Barcelona lifestyle, I've been reflecting on that question a lot recently.  Here are my thoughts...
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Four Biggest Differences Between Lifestyle in California and Spain:
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1. Driving
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It's time for a CA adventure... so let's drive!

​In California, I spend an average of two hours in the car per day, every day. Sometimes it's more like three. Here are the kinds of places I drive to in our California hometown:

  • Supermarket
  • Dry cleaners
  • Kids' schools
  • Bank
  • Gas station
  • Soccer practice
  • Soccer games
  • Brunch or lunch with friends or family
  • Work
  • Date nights
  • To see live music
  • Dinner with friends or family
  • Movie theaters
  • Clothes shopping
  • Medical appointments
  • Emergency room visits for kids
  • Beaches
  • Gyms, exercise classes, Pilates, yoga
  • Everywhere!
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Yep... southern California traffic. Again.

​In Spain, we drive our car for the following reasons:

  • To pick up friends or relatives at the airport
  • "Away" soccer games (not in our neighborhood) on weekends
  • Showing out-of-town visitors the Catalan countryside
  • Family vacation road trips

My husband would probably appreciate if I mention here that I myself do not actually drive in Europe.  We do own a car - the fabulous Chico Suave - but my husband is the only one who drives it.  

So, even when we do drive, I'm not the one with the stress here.  


To be fair I will add that he chose this fate when we first moved to Spain.  In 2016 Sr. Aventura decided to buy a car with a manual transmission and when I reminded him before purchase that I only drive automatic he smiled and said, "That's fine, it's just for a year."  Famous last words! 

Three years later, we are still living in Spain and my somewhat chagrined husband continues to do the (rare) driving.  Mainly though, he bicycles and the children and I walk or take the bus, metro or taxi!

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Taking the metro and local trains in Spain makes getting around easy and relaxing!


​2.  Grocery Shopping
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Going to buy olives in Spain at a local olive market.

Another big difference I find between California and Spain: Grocery shopping!
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In California, our family tends to buy groceries like this:

  • Get out the reusable grocery bags, put them in the car
  • Drive to a large market such as (but not limited to) Vons, CostCo, Trader Joes
  • Take a large grocery cart and fill it with an entire week's worth of items
  • If at CostCo, perhaps fill the cart with a month's worth of non-perishable items
  • Stand in line where a checker and/or baggers put all of my groceries in bags or cardboard boxes
  • At times, scan all of our own groceries and bag them myself before paying an automated cashier
  • Bring the full shopping cart to the car
  • Drive the car home
  • Unload the groceries into the house and garage refrigerator

In Spain, our family buys groceries like this:

  • Get out the Spanish shopping trolley (made of water-resistant fabric, on wheels)
  • Push the trolley up or down the street to any one of the 3 vegetable and fruit vendors located within two blocks of our house; or to the butcher; or to the fishmonger; or to the bakery
  • Alternatively, push the trolley to any one of the 3 major grocery stores on our street
  • Purchase enough fruit, vegetables, meats, grains, beverages and sundries to fill the shopping trolley (likely enough for 1-2 days total)
  • Weigh all of our own produce and vegetables
  • Bag all of our own groceries
  • Pay the cashier 
  • Push the shopping trolley back to our apartment building
  • Take the trolley into the elevator (our neighbors might prefer that we use the service elevator for this purpose but hey, we're BRAZEN!)
  • Unload the shopping trolley in our kitchen and place groceries in the refrigerator
  • Eggs and unopened milk containers are NOT refrigerated in Europe

The main differences are that we buy less food in Spain, so the food we eat is fresher... and I walk to and from the grocery store, so there is a lot more exercise involved (and weight lifting, once the shopping trolley is full).
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3. Lunch during the Work Week
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Typical appetizers for a normal Spanish lunch 'menu'.

One enormous difference that we have noted and appreciated between California and Spain is the way in which people eat lunch during a work week.

In California, this is how we typically ate lunch with our respective jobs:

  • At our desks, in front of the computer
  • Out on 'lunch duty' as a teacher while continuing to work (for me)
  • Lunch meetings (continuing to work)
  • Having lunch delivered to our places of work for special occasions
  • Business lunches (for my husband)
  • Quickly!  There is always more work to be done!
  • Non-alcoholic (what are you, a lush???)
  • Normal lunchtime: 11:30am - 1:30pm

Here is how we eat lunch in Spain (along with all of the working people at the tables next to us):

  • In a restaurant or at home
  • Freshly made, not processed or packed in plastic
  • Often with friends, colleagues or family
  • Taking advantage of the daily "menu" which is a sort of prix fixe affair
  • A typical "menu" in Spain consists of a 1st course, 2nd course, dessert and a beverage (often wine)
  • Usually costs between 12 and 16 euro per person for the entire meal
  • Tipping more than a few coins is not customary or expected
  • Lunch can last between 2-3 hours
  • Customary to have a glass of wine (of course, it's time to relax!!!)
  • Normal lunchtime: 1:30 - 4:30pm 
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4. Family Time
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Off for a family hike in lovely Rupit, Spain. Great way to spend a Sunday!

​We are a family that values our time together in all countries so it isn't particularly surprising to find us hanging out as a group after school or on the weekend, whether in California or Spain.

In California, this is how we usually spend family time together during the week and on weekends:

  • ​Driving to soccer practice
  • Driving to soccer games
  • Driving to get groceries
  • Driving to shop at the mall
  • Driving to play at the beach
  • Eating dinner together, sometimes in front of the television, around 6 or 6:30pm
  • Hosting playdates at our house
  • Bringing our kids to other people's houses for playdates
  • Making dinner for family and friends
  • Barbecues
  • Playing board games
  • Bicycling
  • Going to parties
  • Going to the movies or watching a movie together at home


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Soccer Saturday, Spanish Style. Viva Fútbol!

​In Spain, this is how we typically spend family time together during the week and on weekends:

  • Taking the bus or train to soccer practice
  • Taking the bus or train to soccer games
  • Walking to the grocery store
  • Walking to shop at the Corte Ingles Store
  • Driving for a family adventure out of town, such as hiking or beach-going
  • Visiting friends in local towns, letting our kids run around the Placa (which is like the town square) after they have a gelato
  • Inviting friends over to experience curious American traditions including 'slumber parties' and 'pancake breakfasts'. We've also introduced them to American Thanksgiving Dinners!
  • Making a large afternoon lunch on the weekend for friends called a 'comida'
  • Playing board games
  • Bicycling
  • Going to parties
  • Spending all of Sunday together - all of the businesses are closed, it's a day for being together with your family!
  • Flying to neighboring cities or countries, since everything is so close and the flights are so cheap!  15 euros to Mallorca?  Yes, please!​

Both California and Spain are pretty spectacular places to live.  We are such a lucky family, there are no bad options!  Still, if you've been wondering what it would be like to pick up and move abroad, this blog post hopefully gives an idea of what may be different in your new life.
Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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Enjoying a family afternoon in Barcelona... car free. We hiked up to see the view!
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Discovering Desenzano Del Garda, Italy: The Best Restaurants, Gelaterias, Hotels & Activities!

9/10/2018

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There's a lot to look at in Desenzano del Garda!

​Desenzano del Garda is a great little town on Lake Garda that I'd never even heard of before we booked our AirBNB. Now, after spending a week there, I would recommend it to anyone for its myriad charming shops and restaurants, street music and wonderful outdoor market... and also for its terrifically central location. 

From Desenzano it is very easy to walk, bicycle, drive or take a ferry anywhere around Lake Garda.  There is also a train station right in the heart of town, with direct service to larger cities nearby including Verona, Venice and Milan.  

Longer day trips are possible too. If you're willing to drive for a few hours you can be either hiking in the Dolomites or basking on a Mediterranean beach.  For these reasons, we encourage you to consider Desenzano del Garda as a great 'base' for your next northern Italian vacation. If you love lakes, mountains and watersports you definitely won't be sorry you chose to come here!

Here are our best recommendations for where to eat, enjoy a gelato, play and stay in Desenzano!

The Best Of Desenzano

Where To Eat?
Pratello Winery
Kapperi
Gattolardo
Alla Stella

Gelato Heaven? 
Bon Bon Gelato
Gelateria Vivaldi

Where To Play? 
Desenzano Farmer's Market
Spiaggia Desenzanino
Spiaggia Del Oro
Sirmione

Where To Stay?
Hotel Tripoli
Hotel Vittorio


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Hard to say no to a view like this!

Where To Eat?

Pratello
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Food and wine under the stars at Pratello.

On the advice of a good friend we took the short drive (10-15 minutes) from Desenzano Del Garda to reach this lovely winery located in the hills along the Brescia shore of Lake Garda. Enoteca La Veranda, the Pratello restaurant, is a farm-to-table establishment where most of the dishes are created using ingredients grown in Pratello's gardens and pastures.  From vegetables to preserves, fruit, olive oil, wine and salames... all of these and more are created or crafted by Pratello's warm and welcoming staff.

During the Fall and Winter you can get warm and hearty local dishes including soups, stews and roasts.  In the summer you should dine outdoors under the ancient mulberry trees on treats like grilled meats, salads and fresh pasta.  Best of all, of course, the wine!  Pratello's wine is light, refreshing and delicious!  We brought back an entire case of Pratello wine from Italy.

Reservations recommended.  
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Kapperi 
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Great food, great drinks and amazing gluten free options at Kapperi!

​Kapperi is a restaurant of high quality with excellent food.  The restaurant is so popular that it is often difficult to arrange a table during high season without calling several days in advance.  Perhaps this popularity stems from the staff's focus on giving excellent service and providing a creative menu that meets the dining needs of both a 'normal' and a 'gluten free' palate.  

This is one of the only restaurants I have ever seen with its own dedicated gluten-free kitchen, apart from the normal kitchen. Two kitchens! They bake their own gluten free items with their own flour mix on site! There are over 50 gluten free options on their menu, from appetizers to main courses to dessert! Amazing!!! The food itself is delicious with ample portion sizes. Our particular favorites included the Rustica Salad with roasted chicken and homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce. 

My family enjoyed this place so much, we ate there twice in two days! 
​Highly recommended. Reservations are essential.


Gattolardo
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The sweetest ambiance at Gattolardo!

Gattolardo is a truly sweet restaurant that we first noticed while passing by on the main street of Desenzano. What a welcome respite in the heart of the tourist district to have such an inviting and enjoyable space tucked away, almost escaping notice.  Gattolardo offers indoor and outdoor seating and a truly charming atmosphere... small, tasteful and warm.  The menu includes mouth-watering pasta, pizzas, salads, seafood and grilled fish, wine and other entrees.

Don't miss their famous pizza, lasagna or mouth-watering hot chocolate cake!  This place is really a gem.

Reservations recommended.


Alla Stella
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Pasta that's worth the wait at Alla Stella!

​Alla Stella is very popular, very beautiful, and provides delicious food.  Unfortunately the wait during high season, even with a reservation, can be quite impressive.  Our family waited for nearly thirty minutes to give our order once we were seated and almost another hour before the actual meal arrived. 

That said, under other circumstances if we had not been as tired or hungry I think we would have had a spectacular time.  The food really was fantastic. So, recommended!  Just be aware of what you are getting into.  It appears to be a family run restaurant... hence there are only so many people to serve and assist... but if you can be patient and don't mind starting with drinks and appetizers, I think you will have a very positive experience.  

Possibly better for romantic dates rather than family dinners.
​Reservations recommended.
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Gelato Heaven? 

Bon Bon Gelato
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Make Your Own Gelato At Bon Bon!

Despite getting somewhat mediocre reviews on TripAdvisor, Bon Bon was my kids' favorite gelateria in Desenzano. They loved it mainly because of its set-up: more like a frozen yogurt bar than a typical Italian gelateria.  When walking in they were handed cups and then they could serve themselves from any of the gelatos stored on the wall (all of which are gluten free).  There were at least 6 flavors my children found to be very interesting. My husband and I had some too!  The gelato tasted very good.

After serving themselves the kids were instructed (in English) to add as many toppings as they liked. Their cups of gelato were weighed and then purchased based on weight. (Be careful because this can add up.) Bon Bon offered a fantastic array of toppings and sauces (caramel, chocolate, etc.) to take any gelato from ordinary to 'WOW!'  

The service was excellent and the store itself was sparkling clean.  We now give it our highest recommendation, and my kids want to go back!
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Gelateria Vivaldi
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​Vivaldi was more of a traditional gelateria.  A large counter, tons of flavors and eager Italian youth serving behind the counter who seemed as though they might be university students. This gelateria has a solid, merited reputation and there were lines out the door every single time we walked by during the week.

A highlight was that Vivaldi features interesting flavors including 'Penguin' and 'Peach', plus a lot of sorbet options.

It's hard to imagine any Italian gelato that wouldn't taste creamy, rich and amazing. Gelateria Vivaldi definitely had great quality gelato and our entire family was satisfied with the dessert we purchased there.  Highly recommended! 
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Where To Play? 

Desenzano is a really nice place to stay but there aren't a lot of amazing things to DO there. It's a perfect base for trips around the lake, into the mountains, and to local cities like Verona and Venice.

The town features great restaurants and hotels, plus a fabulous street market. Desenzano beaches are just ok... not spectacular... but we'll tell you about the best two!  You should definitely also check out Sirmione if you are looking for somewhere truly special to play that you can reach by foot, bike, bus or car.


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Desenzano Farmer's Market
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Hard to choose with so many great products at the Farmer's Market!

It's always a joy to experience Farmer's Market Day in Italy... when local farmers and vendors show up to proudly display their products in booths lining the streets of a town.  Desenzano has a particularly splendid street market, featuring artisanal cheeses, breads, salames and fruits/vegetables along with paintings, toys, clothing, candy and much more!  

The Desenzano Farmer's Market takes place on Thursdays starting at 8am and lasting through the evening.  Definitely worth taking a leisurely stroll to check out the stands!

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Spiaggia Desenzanino
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Friends you may see at the beaches of Desenzano!

Spiaggia Desenzanino turned out to be a small beach just beyond the main street in town. A person could walk there from the center in about 10 minutes. It was recommended to my family by the Tourism office.  When I saw it I was quite surprised by how tiny the little strip of beach was, and how full of tourists!  The beach felt almost like an afterthought.

Still, if you are staying in Desenzano and looking for a place to sit in the sun on rented chairs with a good book next to the water (or hoping to dip your toes into Lake Garda for a minute) this will do very nicely!  The views of the lake and mountains are spectacular!

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Spiaggia D'Oro

Spiaggia D'Oro is a small private beach. You pay both for parking and for the umbrella and beach chair you rent.  That said, it's close to town, clean and well maintained.  In the winter, the beach is almost deserted and you can spend a very pleasant (chilly) time enjoying the lake.  During the summer it's much more crowded so plan accordingly and arrive early if you want your own space on the rocks!
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Sirmione
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​There are so many incredible things to say about Sirmione that I've created an entire blog post about it, which you can read here.  Highlights include swimming at Jamaica Beach, sunning in front of ancient Roman ruins and enjoying gelato cones that are nearly the size of a baby's head.

If you are staying in Desenzano del Garda (whether alone or with family or friends) I would highly recommend spending at least one full day in Sirmione.  It's worth your time!

Where To Stay?

Hotel Tripoli (reasonable)
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The great things about Hotel Tripoli are also potentially its drawbacks. Its location is perfect if you're seeking action, fun and energy.  Young couples will love the way this hotel looks out upon Desenzano's beautiful harbor and opens up right onto its main street.  

At night the front of the hotel is illuminated with beautiful lights and there are street musicians performing just down the way, creating a fun, festive, party atmosphere.  I saw lots of couples in their twenties sipping cocktails and wine while chatting and flirting at the little tables that flow forth from the building into the main walkway.

As a mom with three kids, especially when my kids were young, I would probably have avoided this hotel for the same reasons why I am recommending it now.  
It would be very hard for small children to sleep with all of the noise from the busy, exciting street plus music and people drinking late into the night.  Especially at the height of the August heat, I cannot imagine trying to close the hotel windows to shut out all of the noise.  

So, this hotel is highly recommended for couples, single travelers and adult friends!  If you're a family with young kids or a more senior couple, consider a different hotel or an AirBNB.  Prices at Hotel Tripoli range from 127 - 200 euro for double occupancy.

Hotel Vittorio (reasonable)

Hotel Vittorio boasts an idyllic location looking straight out upon gorgeous Lake Garda. The views are spectacular!  The hotel's decor is modern and clean, with nice quality linens and quilts and beautiful wicker patio furniture. Everything is very tasteful and welcoming. The staff is highly rated for their courtesy and thoughtfulness, and the morning breakfast is plentiful and delicious!

Best of all... pop out the front door and already you'll already be strolling on the shores of Lake Garda!   Prices range from 105 - 150 euro per night for double occupancy.
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If you're planning a trip to Lake Garda you owe it to yourself to consider staying in the charming, vibrant town of Desenzano del Garda.  No matter how you spend your days on the lake, you'll love coming back to its delicious restaurants, excellent gelato options, reasonably priced hotels, and glorious views!

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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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Soaking up the sun and fun in Desenzano del Garda!
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Fair Verona: Beautiful Things To See & Do In Shakespeare's Famous Italian City Of (Starcrossed) Love

8/23/2018

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Loving Verona! **

​Italy is a country legendary for romance.  Italian men and women are widely regarded as physically beautiful, culturally elegant and passionate. The Italian countryside is photographed and celebrated by visitors from all over the world for its exquisite terrain and architecture. In film and in life, Italian food is delicious... and Italian affairs of the heart have a reputation for depth and excitement.

Verona is one Italian city well known for love, romance and culture. William Shakespeare set two successful plays in Verona, the most popular of which is (drumroll, please) "Romeo and Juliet"!

Located in the Veneto region (northeastern Italy) on the banks of the Adige river, Verona is relatively small in contrast with larger metropolitan cities like Milan and Rome. Its population is estimated to be around 250,000 people - even smaller in August when local temperatures reach 95F (35C) and most businesses have shuttered for vacation.  Even then however there is plenty to see and do in Verona.

If you decide to travel to Venice or Lake Garda, consider devoting one day to Verona.  Here are our recommendations for a romantic, fun experience!

Six Wonderful Ways To Spend A Day in Verona

1) Summer Opera Festival in Verona's Roman Arena
2) 'Traveling' Performance of Romeo & Juliet
3) Walk Thru Old Town to the Ponte Pietra 
4) Enjoy A Gelato in Piazza Delle Erbe
5) Visit Juliet's Balcony & Juliet's Tomb
6) Check Out Love Locks Along the Adige River

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**Photo Credit: @InspiredTravelPhotography (Instagram)​

Summer Opera Festival in Verona's Roman Arena
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"Aida!" Live performance at Arena di Verona, August 2018.

The Arena di Verona Summer Opera Festival is out-of-this-world cool. When else in your life will you climb up an ancient Roman amphitheater to watch a live performance sitting on marble seats that have been used for nearly 2,000 years?  Whether you're an opera fan or not, it's quite an experience!

The Arena was built in 30AD. Games and spectacles that took place there were hugely popular! People came from all over to see them. Originally the amphitheater could seat up to 30,000 spectators.  (For safety reasons, seating today is offered to only 15,000.)  

The outside of the building was originally made of white and pink limestone which must have looked spectacular! Its facade crumbled during a major earthquake 900+ years ago and those stones were later used to build other parts of Verona.  Even so, the Arena remains majestic.
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Remnants of the original outer wall, Verona Arena.

Verona's Arena has been used for opera performances ever since 1913 - except during World War I and World War II.  Each summer between June and August, four to six operas are performed. 
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As of August 2018 tickets range between 25 euro and 275 euro per person depending on how close you want to sit to the stage. Buying general admission seats gives you access to the ancient stone steps, which are not individual seats. This is the cheapest way to see the opera (you can rent cushions to give your bottom more padding). The steps honestly give you some of the best views in the arena! Candles are passed out to the audience and lit after sunset, as the opera begins.  

Our family enjoyed perfect views from the cheap seats and we were honestly comfortable perched on the marble steps on our rented cushions.  The heat of the sun soaks into the marble all day and then radiates back (like an ancient seat warmer) to the audience all night. Even at eleven pm, we were comfortable and toasty.


The acoustics of the Arena are superb. Two out of three Aventura children pronounced the opera we saw ("Aida") to be 'fantastic' and 'magical'.  "I'm loving this, Mom!" confided my eldest, age 13.

Highly recommended!
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​'Traveling' Performance of Romeo & Juliet
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Oh, the real-life romance of it all!

Think you've seen "Romeo and Juliet"? I can almost guarantee you haven't seen it like this!  Imagine watching the most famous romantic tragedy in the world performed live in the actual streets and squares of Verona where the play was originally set! 

In good weather fans of Romeo and Juliet can watch live 'traveling' performances which begin in "Juliet's courtyard" off of Via Capelli, continue on her celebrated balcony and then move with the actors through the main streets of Verona - passing through many of the most celebrated places in the heart of the old town - before ending in the Teatro Nuovo for the play's final act!  SO MUCH FUN!

This live performance has been happening since 1989 and is very popular with Italian and international audiences. 

Since 2015 (thanks to a collaboration with the King's Theatre of Portsmouth) the show has been presented in two languages - Italian and English.  The performance begins at 9pm with pre-show drinks at 8:30pm. Tickets start at 22 euro.  Make sure to ask about the family package!

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​Walk Thru Old Town to the Ponte Pietra
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Checking out the view from the Ponte Pietra.

"You must see Ponte Pietra!" exclaimed our AirBNB hostess, "You will have the nicest view in the city!"  

Ponte Pietra is the oldest and arguably most beautiful bridge in Verona, dating all the way back to 100AD!  The arched bridge was built by Romans and has withstood nearly 2,000 years of daily travel - though 2/3 of it was bombed out during World War II and later rebuilt.  

The view from the bridge is particularly romantic looking toward the mountains above the old part of town.  

Thanks to a conveniently positioned gelateria and many local restaurants, you can make a visit to this bridge fit smoothly into any kind of plan or date!  The view is well worth the walk!

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​Enjoy A Gelato in Piazza Delle Erbe

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Piazza Delle Erbe

This sweet square was Verona's forum or meeting place back in Ancient Rome.  These days it's famous for being the site of the Torre de Lamberti bell tower and the frescoed houses of the Mazzanti. There is also a cool ancient fountain dating back to the year 1368 and a white marble column topped with St. Mark's Lion (symbolizing the republic of Venice). 

A number of conveniently placed benches frame this lovely square, any one of which would be a perfect place to relax and enjoy a cup or cone of gelato while taking in the still-splendid view of the lovely though fading towers and frescoes. You and your sweetheart can relax and watch the world pass by for a few minutes or hours. 

Piazza Delle Erbe really gives travelers a glimpse of the splendor of Verona in years past!  


​Visit Juliet's Balcony & Juliet's Tomb
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Angel was excited about the tomb because she knows the story is fiction :)
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My daughter and I were enchanted with the notion of visiting the homes where the fictional character of Giulietta Capuleti (aka Juliet Capulet) supposedly lived.  "La Casa di Giulietta" turns out to be a place where couples and romantics journey from all over the world simply to celebrate the idea of love.  

​Visitors enter the courtyard of the house through a hallway that's covered from top to toe in love notes and letters. Entering the courtyard you'll see the balcony where Romeo purportedly climbed up to steal a kiss from Juliet.

Throngs of tourists cluster at the base of the balcony to photograph their friends or loved ones standing up there. If you want to pay the entrance fee, you can stand on the balcony yourself.  It's higher than it looks!  That must have been some climb, Romeo!

Angel and I thought the experience looked silly and fun, so we paid the tiny fee to enter the museum and my son offered to take our photo. We knew we were basically entering a movie set but we had a great time smiling from Juliet's balcony!

There wasn't much to the actual museum: a statue, some costumes and sets from Franco Zeffererelli's movie, plus some traditional furniture and dishware.  

Most of the people waiting in line were couples waiting to smooch on the balcony while their friends took pictures.

Angel and I had a fabulous time and laughed at ourselves a lot.

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Juliet's Tomb in Via Luigi da Porto felt a bit more 'real' and also a bit sadder.  On the grounds of a decent fresco museum there is a small subterranean crypt. If you descend the steps into the cold stone room you'll see an empty sarcophagus that has been, for several hundred years, a place of pilgrimage for superfans of the story of Romeo and Juliet.  For reasons lost to history this empty tomb has a reputation for being the burial place of Juliet and her love (even though they were fictional characters).

Romantics have visited this tomb for centuries, sometimes even breaking off little bits of the sarcophagus to take home, which is now guarded.  The museum even performs weddings here! 

Experiencing Juliet's tomb was honestly not as fun for us the balcony house experience, but it did feel a lot more genuine and sad... so depending on what kind of love story you're looking for - hopeful or tragic - you could visit one or both of these places to pay your respects to Juliet! 


Check Out Love Locks Along the Adige River
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Great place for a romantic stroll!

A love lock is a padlock that a couple attaches to a bridge to represent their love and commitment to each other. Over the past four years our family has seen many of these locks on bridges all throughout Europe. While many people hate them because they can damage beautiful old bridges, there is something moving about seeing hundreds of love locks lining the Adige River decorated with the names and vows of lovers from all over the world.  That's a lot of hope and commitment!

It could be romantic to take a sunset stroll hand-in-hand with your own beloved alongside the Adige, enjoying the beautiful view of hills and city while checking out the myriad sweet love locks fastened securely to the river's fences and bridges. Who knows, maybe you'll be inspired to make your own declaration of love there too!

Whatever you choose to do in Verona - whether you are traveling alone or with a partner - we wish you a marvelous, romantic, fun time!
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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
​

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Balcony scene displayed at Juliet's Tomb, August 2018.
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Summer Vacation! Where To Eat, Swim, Play & Stay in Italian Lake Garda's Lovely Sirmione

8/18/2018

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Enjoying Sirmione's Spiaggia Jamaica on a hot day!

​Lake Garda is enormous, so big in fact that your family could probably spend an entire summer here and still not see and do everything on offer. There are multiple amusement parks and aquariums, lots of beautiful towns circling the lake like jewels on a necklace, countless restaurants, special museums and archaeological ruins, a vibrant nightlife, and a huge variety of outdoor activities including boating, windsurfing, hiking, cycling, diving, swimming, camping and MUCH more.

If you have only a few days of vacation this year we suggest that you consider devoting one of them to Sirmione, a Lake Garda treasure.

Sirmione is a popular resort town set on an isthmus about 20 minutes by car from Desenzano. Well known for its thermal baths, Sirmione also boasts the beautiful medieval Scaligera castle fortress overlooking the lake, plus ruins of a spectacular Roman villa at the Grotte di Catullo.  

Our family spent two days enjoying this crowded but fabulous slice of paradise. Here are highlights to help you plan your own trip to the isthmus... including where to eat, where to swim, what to see, places to stay and how to get to Sirmione!


Highlights of Sirmione


Where To Eat:
Ristorante San Lorenzo (family), Il Girasole (date night), Rucola 2.0 (elegant)
The Bounty Bar (gelato!)

Where To Swim:
Spiaggia Jamaica

What To See: 
Roman Ruins at Grotte di Catullo
​Medieval Castle of "Rocca Scaligera"

Where To Stay: 
Hotel Marconi (reasonable), Hotel Eden (elegant)

How To Get There:
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From Desenzano LN026 Bus (20 minutes), drive (17 minutes) or walk (1 hr 40 minutes)

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Magnificent ancient ruins!

​Where To Eat:

​​Ristorante San Lorenzo (family)
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Relaxing atmosphere at Ristorante San Lorenzo.
 
My kids and I stumbled into Ristorante San Lorenzo after a long, sweaty walk in 90F heat and humidity.  We felt hungry and exhausted. The restaurant's shaded outdoor dining area was blessedly cool and relaxing and our server was prompt and professional.  (He also spoke perfect English, though I tried hard with my Italian!)

Ristorante San Lorenzo's menu focuses on pizzas and pastas with plenty of vegetarian and gluten free options. My kids give high marks to the spaghetti bolognese and Margherita pizza, and I recommend the gluten free 'funghi' (mushroom) pizza. While the restaurant seems very reasonably priced, do watch out for the cover charges everywhere in Sirmione and remember that in Italy wine is cheaper than water!

Il Girasole (date night)
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Nice place for a dinner date!

Il Girasole is situated toward the end of town far from the crowded and bustling entrance; this restaurant is one of the last buildings you will pass on your walk out to the ruins and the beach.  With simple but elegant decor and a nearly five star rating on TripAdvisor for its food, il Girasole is an easy decision.  It's important - especially in high season - to reserve your table in advance. Praised for its pizza, pasta, salads and meat/fish offerings, this restaurant would make a perfect place to take your sweetheart after a fun day spent swimming or boating together in the lake. Servers speak English here too.  Desserts earn very high praise!

Rucola 2.0 (elegant)

This highly rated Michelin star restaurant, tucked down a side street next to the Castle of Scaligera, is a wonderful place for both foodies and high romance... though probably not ideal with kids. The baked octopus starter with black mustard mayonnaise retails at 30 euro per serving and all tasting menus run 60 - 85 euro per person. The range of food options are wondrous, from deep water Rose shrimps in peach cream to seared scallops with black garlic and yuzu!  Rucola 2.0 features a fabulous wine menu and would be the perfect place to spend an elegant evening with the one you love.
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The Bounty Bar (gelato!)
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Incredible gelato! Enormous!

Sirmione offers a tremendous array of gelaterias (together we counted at least 13), several of which sell giant cones with scoops of gelato larger than apples.  Wow!  Just wow!  We'd honestly never seen such enormous gelato cones - ever!  As my family walked down the street we noticed tourist after tourist rapturously enjoying their massive icy treats. Eleven year old Soccer Dude's eyes began to bug out with excitement.  "Can we get one?  Please?  Please?" 

With long lines winding out the door The Bounty Bar may possibly have the most interesting selection and the most impressive looking cones.  Featuring flavors such as "vaniglia nera" (black vanilla which was actually a gorgeous charcoal gray) and "Smurf" (a bright, delightful blue) along with kind, attentive service, this is a place to return to!
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Where To Swim:
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Spiaggia Jamaica
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Unique, phenomenal Jamaica Beach!

Jamaica Beach in Sirmione is special. Nestled at the foot of the Grotte di Catullo, the beach itself (not sandy) sits against a backdrop of spectacular ancient Roman ruins and looks toward the stunning Garda limestone mountain range while surrounded on all sides by the crystalline waters of Lake Garda.

A bar sits in the shade of olive trees right above the beach.  It offers aperitifs and yummy drinks (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic). Wandering down the path you will find yourself looking out upon a series of wide, overlapping rock plates where you can lay your towels or blankets (if the tide is low and rocks are dry) or play in shallow rock pools and slides (if they are wet).

​As you walk out closer to the actual lake, the water caressing the rocks becomes deeper and cooler with gentle waves breaking around your knees - which feels amazing on a hot summer day!  Tiny fish share these rocky pools with you and will dart in large schools all around your feet as you walk carefully out to the lake's true edge. 
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Serious swimmers like my husband will enjoy swimming all the way around the isthmus and checking out the ancient ruins from the water.  It's important to hug the shore when you swim though as there are myriad motor boats anchored just yards away from the edge of the rocks.

My kids spent hours enjoying this amazing place and I was awed by its setting.  We were swimming in the same spot where Emperor Catullus and his family swam thousands of years before, enjoying the majestic views.  Truly a bucket list experience!
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​What To See: 

Roman Ruins at Grotte di Catullo
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This ancient Roman villa was built between the beginning and end of the 1st century AD.  It is beautifully preserved (in some areas reconstructed) and sits amid a large grove of olive trees overlooking splendid Lake Garda. The villa itself is thought to be the 'most important example of a high class residence in all of northern Italy'.  

As part of the price of admission you may tour its museum which houses many intriguing archaeological discoveries and treasures found during the excavation of the site in the 20th century, along with beautiful black and white photos taken in the 1940s and 50s.

If you're looking for an amazing place to propose marriage to your beloved, consider a leisurely walk along the grounds of the villa toward tip of the isthmus. Below this tremendous ruin and overlooking the sparkling lake, time seems to stand still. There could be no more romantic spot in which to declare your undying love!
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​Medieval Castle "Rocca Scaligera"
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The highlights of this beautiful medieval castle can be earned by climbing up its steep, narrow stone staircases (and one large metal one) to see panoramic views from the top.  Scaligera castle (created in the late 1200s) originally belonged to the Kingdom of Verona and it has a very interesting man-made walled harbor that the Veronese must have sailed their boats into for protection. The views from the top of the square-cut castle fortress are extraordinary and showcase its excellent defensive position. The castle controlled the only access point to the town of Sirmione.

The Scaligera fortress is one of Italy's best preserved ancient castles and it's well worth a visit.  One important note: if allergic to bees, beware!  Many, many bees live at the top of the castle inside of its upper walls and they may swarm around you as you walk by their hives.  


Where To Stay:
 
Hotel Marconi

​This beautiful hotel is pristinely clean and is fortunate in its excellent location - a quieter part of Sirmione past the throngs of visitors and right at the edge of Lake Garda. A real gem, Hotel Marconi is highly praised for its excellent service and outstanding breakfast!

Price per night starts at 91 euro. Note: Driving through the tiny narrow, tourist-filled streets of Sirmione to reach this hotel is very difficult. Consider parking outside of the town and walking in.

Hotel Eden

Called by some the most beautiful hotel on Lake Garda, this romantic boutique hotel is preferred by honeymooners and couples on special getaways. It boasts an amazing location, excellent service and extra touches such as sparkling wine waiting in your room for special occasions and private balconies overlooking the lake.  Hotel Eden has a modern interior, lots of sun beds, and terraces and restaurant overlooking the lake for peace and tranquility.  Rated the top hotel in Sirmione by TripAdvisor!  Rooms at Hotel Eden start at 160 euro per night.
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​Getting There: ​
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Ferry travel to Sirmione is easy and fast from Desenzano!

From Desenzano there are many ways to arrive at Sirmione, most of which take less than 30 minutes.  

By Boat: 
Purchase ferry tickets at Piazza Matteotti - 25015 Desenzano at the office of Navigazione Lago Di Garda.  The trip by boat takes 20 minutes. 

By Car: 
The drive itself is in theory swift and easy around the lake... that is, if traffic and parking are not an issue.  During the off season you can make this drive in 15-17 minutes and there are lots of paid parking lots as you grow close to the isthmus.  At the height of summer this same drive can take close to an hour due to traffic and parking is next to impossible.  

By Bus: 
​Catch the LN026 bus from any of multiple stops in downtown Desenzano.  Tickets are 1.90 euro each way and can be purchased in one of the local Tabbachi shops in town. The buses themselves are clean, air conditioned and comfortable with beautiful seats and a nice view out the window.  20 minutes from Desenzano.

On Foot:
If the weather is mild and you've nothing else planned, this would be an easy and relaxing way to get your exercise for the day before touring the town of Sirmione. The walk from Desenzano is 1 hour and 40 minutes approximately.  We did the final 40 minutes of this walk after hopping off the bus too soon.  It was straightforward, however Google Maps put us traveling across a heavily broken wooden boardwalk for several blocks... impossible for a wheelchair or stroller to navigate.

No matter how you get there, Sirmione is a destination well worth your time.  It's rare to find a resort spot this popular that truly lives up to its hype.  This one does!
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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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Sunset from Sirmione, Lake Garda.
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Our Helsinki Discoveries: Where To Stay & Eat Plus Great Activities With Kids!

8/8/2018

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Discovering Finland!

​Sneak Peak

Where to stay? 
Töölö
Where to eat?  Levain Bakery & Eatery, Friends & Brgrs
Top Five Things To Do With Kids?


  1. Seurasaari Island and Open Air Museum
  2. Sibelius Finland Live Music Experience at Helsinki National Hall
  3. Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari Island
  4. National Museum of Finland (featuring "Barbie - The Icon" exhibition)
  5. Linnanmäki Amusement Park and Sea Life aquarium​ ​
​​
I know it sounds crazy for a Type A person but when I travel I really don't like having a concrete plan or itinerary. I've always preferred spontaneous, open-ended fun. I like having the freedom to change my mind, or add something unexpectedly amazing at the last minute.

This explains why, when my nine year old daughter Angel and I arrived in glorious Finland last week, I had no idea how we would spend the four days and nights of our stay.

That, crazily enough, was an essential part of the travel magic.

I did try to find a decent guidebook before we arrived in the country. 

Okay... I didn't try that hard.  My daughter and I stopped at a total of one American bookstore called Barnes & Noble in the Irvine Spectrum Center Mall on our way to the Los Angeles International Airport.  As it turned out, they had a single book about Scandinavia that devoted 30 pages to Finland... only 5 of which covered Helsinki.  

That book cost about $25USD. It was pretty heavy.  I calculated that we'd be spending about $5 per page of Helsinki info. On the bright side, it was written in English (our native language).

"I think we can do better in Spain."  I ditched the book and rushed nine year old Angel out of the store and onward to the airport. 
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Great experience with Norwegian Air Shuttle!
After our long journey home to Barcelona I had two days in town to rest, do laundry, re-pack and find a guidebook before we jumped on our Norwegian flight to Helsinki.  

In the end I found a pocket sized book in Spanish explaining Helsinki's history. I mainly purchased it to use the foldable city map attached to the back of the book.

​​Angel and I arrived in Finland after a four hour flight on Norwegian Air Shuttle.  It was uneventful - good service, a little turbulence toward the end.
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We had only the basics covered: roundtrip airplane tickets, a well-reviewed AirBNB apartment rented in a good Helsinki neighborhood, and some euro in cash.

​From there, we were free to explore, discover and invent every moment of each day.

What a luxury!  Freedom from schedules! Freedom from 'musts'.


"Where would YOU like to go?" I asked Angel. "What would YOU like to do?"

Angel is the youngest child of three. She RARELY gets to be the one choosing or deciding anything. The poor thing spends half her life getting dragged to her brother's soccer practices, games, playdates, etc.

Her face lit up like Christmas morning. "Really? I get to choose?"

"Sure!  Definitely. Let's find out our options and then you pick the things you most want to do, and we will do them."

"You too, Mommy." She fixed a serious look on my face.  "You also get to choose the things you want to do.  This is your trip too."
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Fun for Angel to choose her own adventure!

​Luckily it's not that hard in this day and age to find out what's available in a large cosmopolitan city like Helsinki.  Between TripAdvisor and the various brochures at our AirBNB, she and I soon had a huge list of options.  Using that as a jumping off point, we dove into our adventure and did not overthink it.

Here are the highlights of what Angel and I discovered for ourselves during our four days in Helsinki! Our suggestions are ideal for families with kids, but would also be useful and fun for travelers alone or couples on vacation.
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Finland is beautiful!

​The Nitty Gritty

Where to stay?  
​
Töölö 
 
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The ​Töölö neighborhood in Helsinki.

Töölö is a very old and safe neighborhood just a few blocks away from the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) and the Natural Science Museum.  There is a truly unique, very famous church excavated into a rock called Temppelinaukion kirkko and the enormous, impressive Finnish Parliament buildings!  Angel and I found two or three parks for kids within close range (Angel tried them all out!) and it was a quick and easy stroll to the well known Kampii shopping center and the Kamppi metro station. We both loved staying here and even discovered two great restaurants and a famous jazz club nearby!

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Where to eat? 
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Levain Bakery & Eatery

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Ridiculously delicious food at the Levain Bakery & Eatery.

Located just a few blocks from the AirBNB flat where we stayed, we stumbled upon this treasure on our first day.  Levain is a casual, comfortable place where people can meet for breakfast, lunch or dinner.  (Dinner service begins at 3pm/15:00 and lasts until late at night!) There is indoor and outdoor seating. The jewel of this restaurant is their bakery which creates gorgeous real sourdough bread and other homemade products from morning through afternoon so that guests can enjoy fresh bread with their dinners! 

Although I am gluten free, my daughter tried the bread and reported back that it was beyond delicious!  Together we enjoyed a meal of sage roasted chicken with a saffron aioli sauce, decadent handcut fries and salad along with a Finnish version of Manchego cheese and marinated olives for an appetizer.  Yum! ​


Friends & Brgrs

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So reasonably priced and fantastic, we went back!

Friends & Brgrs  is a sensational burger chain unlike anything I've had before.  I don't really eat red meat (once in a blue moon) and yet we liked this place so much we ate here three days in a row with my daughter - it was that good!  They have beef, chicken and vegan burgers made fresh to order along with fries and milkshakes.

Part of what sets this small, privately run chain apart of restaurants is the way they create their food. They bake all of their own buns on-site, grind the meat fresh in the restaurant every day, and triple cook their fries, using high quality locally sourced ingredients.  Friends & Brgrs has gluten free and vegan options, and also some fun and unusual flavors like fries with cheddar, pico de gallo and special house mayonnaise.

As a mom I really appreciated their environmentally friendly tableware.  All meals are served on real plates and drinks given in real glasses.  Waste is immediately recycled into different bins, and leftovers are given in simple brown paper bags.  Amazing for a fast food joint!
​

​Top Five Things To Do With Kids?

Seurrasaari Island and Open Air Museum
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The Open Air Museum is full of spectacular, original 19th century buildings.

Wow! This island is seriously cool. Located just a few km from downtown Helsinki, this beautiful green escape can be reached easily by the #24 bus or private car and is well worth the effort!  Its Open Air museum features 87 different buildings built mainly in the 19th century and taken from all around Finland to represent all of its different territories. Domesticated animals live in wooden pens (sheep, goats) and wild ones scamper around the island (red squirrels, hares). 

You can pay to go inside of the buildings during museum hours, or walk around the grounds for free, even if you are there during off hours (which we were).  There are churches, farms, windmills, boat houses, etc. and during business hours all of them are attended by knowledgable guides who can explain the history of each individual location.  The museum cost was reasonable... 9 euro for adults and 3 euro for children 7-17. Kids under 7 are free.

To me, this felt (in a good way) like visiting colonial Williamsburg in Virginia (USA). It's been compared by other travelers to the Museum of Appalachia in the Southern United States.
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Sibelius Finland Live Music Experience at Helsinki National Hall
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Angel with the dynamic producer of the Sibelius Finland Live Music Experience.
The Sibelius Finland Live Music Experience was 3x better than I'd hoped it would be. I purchased tickets at the last minute and after reading reviews online, I imagined that it would be small and homespun. In actuality this is a very impressive one hour performance by talented young musicians in a beautiful hall.  

The concert (showcasing highlights from Sibelius' famous works) is narrated very enjoyably by the event's producer (pictured here with Angel) alongside a curated visual display. Each guest is given a special CD and booklet made for the event.  Audience members are invited to share a non-alcoholic Finnish beverage and chat with the musicians after the show.

My daughter and I loved it!  Angel particularly enjoyed listening to "Valse Triste" and "Finlandia".  This was a perfect, concise introduction for her to the music of Sibelius... full of pictures and funny stories. Highly recommended.

​Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari Island
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Reindeer!

The best thing about this zoo is its setting. It's one of the only zoos in the entire world located on its own island!  To get there you have to walk across a long wooden bridge that attaches it to the mainland. (You could also row over on a boat, in theory!) Korkeasaari has no exterior walls or fences at its edges - just small beaches and open water around the zoo and its pen enclosures.  

Thanks to the little summer rainstorm that happened as we arrived, many of the animals were hiding in their shelters and not visible as we walked by.  Apparently there are 150 species though!  It was fun to see some animals we'd only heard about in books before, like the European bison. Angel was beyond delighted by the large exhibit of reindeer.  She named them and analyzed how it is that reindeer are reportedly able to fly at Christmas.  ("Santa's reindeer are magical," she explained to me, "so their antlers aren't too heavy to fly. That's probably how they do it.")



​National Museum of Finland (featuring "Barbie - The Icon" exhibition)
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National Museum of Finland, currently featuring "Barbie - The Icon."

Angel has never been much of a Barbie girl, although she's fine with playing with Barbies if that is what her friends want to do.  It would never have occurred to her, or to me, to visit a Barbie exhibition.  

Yet, when we learned that the National Museum of Finland was featuring a world famous exhibition celebrating Barbie, we decided that it might be fun to check the 450 dolls they have on display!  We had a great time! Barbie is more of an 'icon' than I ever knew... renowned for being a fashion model, career woman, social pioneer, diva and woman of the world for nearly 60 years. Fun fact: Barbie's 'real' name is Barbara Millicent Roberts!

The permanent collection of the National Museum of Finland was less pink, fluffy and fun but very impressive!  With Finnish artifacts from the Stone Age all the way to present day, this collection taught us so much about Finland's history!  We enjoyed the coins, jewelry, weapons, clothing, decorations and paintings on display and Angel had a fantastic time on the third floor level where the 'kids room' featured weaving on a loom, making buildings out of tall logs and driving an old-fashioned horse and buggy.

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​Linnanmäki Amusement Park and Sea Life aquarium

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Lots to see and do at Linnanmäki and the Sea Life Center!

Linnanmäki is a sweet place to visit with kids.  This popular amusement park has been around since 1950, so it has an older feel. Owned by the nonprofit Children's Day Foundation (Lasten Päivän Säätiö), the purpose of the park is to raise money to donate to Finnish child welfare associations. It kind of makes you want to buy an extra ice cream, when you know your money is going to such a good cause.

In addition to more than 40 rides (like teacups!) and rollercoasters (like its iconic wooden rollercoaster built in 1951), Linnanmäki features a carousel dating back to 1896, a theater, a ferris wheel, a river rapids ride, arcades, restaurants, ice cream, and an aquarium/ocean conservation center.

Angel was really excited to visit this Sea Life Center, which is part of a pan-European aquarium chain.  We originally hiked to Linnanmäki because she wanted to go to the aquarium, and only realized once we'd arrived how many other activities there were to do!  

Sea Life Helsinki has a decent collection of fish, crustaceans, jellyfish, seahorses and sharks from bodies of water all over the world (tropical to arctic). The center is geared toward education about ocean pollution and species conservation. Angel especially enjoyed walking through a large plexiglass tube where she was right in the middle of the swimming creatures!

Finally...

If you've wondered whether it's worth visiting Helsinki with your kids, I encourage you to do it. My daughter is only nine but we had a fantastic trip and now she and I both look forward to bringing the rest of our family to Finland with us someday.
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​​Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
​​
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Adiós, Helsinki! Until next time!
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Girls Trip!  What I Learned Flying TransAtlantic Solo With My 9 Yr Old Daughter

8/2/2018

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​A few days ago I flew from Los Angeles to Barcelona with my nine year old daughter, Little Angel.

We had quite the adventure!  Between the 3 hour drive from San Diego to LAX in heavy traffic, 15 hours of flights, a long delay in Munich, a taxi strike in Spain and arriving to 33C/90F temps and a broken elevator in our apartment building, Angel and I enjoyed 36 hours of nonstop excitement.

(No wonder I'm still feeling sore and groggy two days later!)

Four years ago I would not have had the courage to travel by myself across the world with only my daughter... a woman and a little girl traveling from America to Spain alone! I didn't feel strong or assured enough to take on that kind of challenge back then.

These days, I don't think twice about it.  In fact, she and I are flying out tomorrow morning for another girls-only journey!  We're heading to Finland!

Here are some of the best tips I gathered this time, as a woman traveling across the world alone with a little girl:

  • Keep your cell phone charged, and a charger with you at all times
  • Pay attention to news and social media in your destination country
  • Have a list of friends (or hotels/resources) you can call in the event of a surprise or emergency.
  • Bring lots of snacks, plus an extra change of underwear and toothbrush
  • Be street-smart... but don't be afraid to ask for directions, or to request help from professionals along the way.
  • Use the journey as a chance to teach your child while having fun!
  • Laugh a lot.  At yourself.  At unexpected hiccups. Because it feels good.​​
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Bonus tip for crossing the world alone with your child... sleep is essential! :)

Keep your cell phone charged, and a charger with you at all times

I travel with an iPhone and its own portable extra battery pack.  The extra battery is worth its weight in gold, as it has extended the charge on my phone from 3 hours to over 30! Additionally I try to carry a charging cord and plug with me wherever I go, because you never know when you may need to use it and I'm never, ever sorry that I have it.



Pay attention to news and social media in your destination country

Angel and I learned about the Spanish national taxi strike from a friend's Instagram post, while we were waiting in the Munich airport for our delayed flight to Barcelona. 

We were traveling with three HUGE checked bags.  Two of which I could not lift alone.

If we hadn't looked at the news or social media we would have been really bummed out to arrive in Spain after a 30+ hour journey to discover that we unexpectedly had to haul those three bags along the crowded metro for another hour... plus a walk uphill... just to get home. 



Have a list of friends (or hotels/resources) you can call in the event of a surprise or emergency.

When we saw the Instagram post, I immediately texted a dear friend in Sant Cugat to ask if there was indeed a taxi strike in Barcelona. 

Within moments she responded: 

"Hey! Yes apparently there is a strike today - no taxis at all.  C (husband) is home today and says he's happy to come pick you up from the airport. What time does your flight get in?"

We were so lucky that my friend's superhero husband generously offered to drive 40 minutes to the airport to pick us up (AND another 20 home!) to collect Angel and I after our exhausting day.  What a blessing!

If you don't have friends in the area you are traveling to, it's a good idea to get the contact information for a few reputable hotels (or your AirBNB host) plus private car services - just in case. E.g. we might have been able to work out an arrangement with a hotel airport shuttle to pay them privately for a ride into the city. 

​Having a backup option is always a great idea!
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Bring lots of snacks, plus an extra change of underwear and toothbrush

In Munich our flight was delayed by 15 minutes.  And then another 15.  Followed by another 20... and so forth.  By the time we got off the ground to head to Barcelona, our flight was running nearly 2 hours late.

My daughter Angel felt tired and very hungry at this point.  Luckily we had picked up a salad and a banana, plus a giant salty pretzel and some grapes, when we arrived in the Munich airport. Safe to say we ate our way to patience and a relaxed attitude while waiting, despite the frustrating situation.  

If they'd canceled our flight altogether we might have needed to stay overnight in Munich, so I always bring a change of underwear for each of us in my purse when we travel.  Plus a toothbrush.  Little things make all the difference!



Be street-smart... but don't be afraid to ask for directions, or to request help from professionals along the way.

During our journey I needed to ask for help more than once.  

At a Target store in Irvine, we asked for help finding something we could tie our rolling suitcases together with, since there were only 2 of us and 3 huge bags.  A nice man brought us to the sporting goods section where we found a simple yoga strap that worked perfectly!

At the Alamo Rental Car company in Los Angeles, we asked for help lifting our bags onto and off of the airport shuttle.  We later learned that our bags together weighed well over 100 lbs!  Two kind shuttle employees - one man and one woman - each helped us. 

​We tipped and thanked them most gratefully.
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Use the journey as a chance to teach your child while having fun!

I've taught my daughter that if she needs to ask for help or gets lost she should first search for uniformed professionals (like airport and airline employees) and then try to find a woman (preferably another mother) with a kind looking face. 


However, I myself feel very comfortable asking for advice or help from anyone - man or woman - after watching them carefully for a minute to assess whether they seem to have an honest, open vibe.  I go with my gut and it rarely lets me down.
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Laugh a lot.  At yourself. 
At unexpected hiccups. Because it feels good.

When the airline in Munich delayed our flight for the fourth or fifth time, Little Angel looked at me... and I began to laugh.

"What's so funny, Mom?" she asked.  "Did you hear the lady say that we still can't board the plane?"

"Yes!" I giggled, and then kissed her on the top of her head. "You have to admit, it's pretty awful. I'm so tired, I can't see straight!"

"Why are you laughing then?" 

"Well, right now we can laugh or cry!  I think it's a lot more fun to laugh."

​Angel watched me for a second, and then she began to smile.  Her big, beautiful smile lit up the whole room!  Twenty minutes later when the airline attendant at the front desk delayed our flight AGAIN, she began to laugh too.  


"Traveling with you is fun!" she declared. "Mom-daughter trips are the best."


​​Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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This sweet kiddo is an all-time favorite travel companion! Girls trips are awesome!
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Kid's Eye View: Milan Science & Technology Museum

6/16/2018

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​​by The Scientist, Age 12

​

​Last summer, we came to Milan on our way to Lago Maggiore, a lake that I am sure my mom has covered because we love every aspect of it. The tranquility, the ambiance, the friendly looks you see on people's faces, and most importantly, the lake itself. 

In Milan we had one day to spend because my dad wanted to do a special long bike ride. As we walked out of the apartment I quickly learned that Milan is a city of mosquitos. There were mosquitos everywhere! 

In the blistering summer heat we set out on our journey to find air-conditioning. We first spotted this restaurant called Bistro that looked good and had air-conditioning (the most important part). It was amazing!!!! I ordered a parmesan risotto.

After that experience we spent about an hour walking around the streets of Milan until we found the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci. 

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We decided to go in because it was a science museum and it had a working air conditioning system. It's funny how the air conditioning can have such a big impact on your trip! As soon as we entered we found this colossal, historic machine. Here is my sister smiling next to it.
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At 10 euro per adult and 7.5 per kid, PLUS air conditioning, we were totally in!

If I explained all of the exhibitions that we went to, this article would be 10 pages long, so I will only explain the first two exhibitions we went to, and then do a conclusion. 

The first exhibition about medieval Medicine completely blew us away. It was so cool seeing how doctors and pharmacists used the ingredients they had around them in their natural environment. No synthetics, no machines... only nature to heal. 

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Next we continued to an amazing machine: a camera was detecting where your eyes were looking at and a robotic arm would point to the location.
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​In conclusion, I think this museum should be first on the list of things to do in Milan with kids or even by yourself! This was an amazing museum full of cool facts, and information you can actually use in conversations which I find really helpful!

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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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10 Tips To Make Travel Packing For Kids Fast & Easy

6/14/2018

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​We do a LOT of traveling as a family and invariably it falls to me, Mom, to do most of the packing for our trips.  I'm working on teaching our 12, 11 and 9 year olds how to pack their own suitcases or duffel bags but invariably when they try somebody ends up without underwear, or a sweater, or a second pair of shoes!  (We're getting there, poco a poco!)

Here are 10 useful tips I've found that really help the family travel packing go quickly and smoothly, so that I don't feel frustrated and grumpy late at night before a flight when I'm still preparing while everyone else in the family is asleep.
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  • Do ALL Laundry In Advance
  • Buy A Different Color Of Socks And Underwear For Each Child
  • Make A Checklist For Each Child (Or Adult!)
  • Make Seasonal, Trip Specific Checklists 
  • Pack One Child At A Time
  • Get A Second Pair Of Eyes To Double Check
  • Label Your Bags
  • Weigh Your Carry-Ons
  • Have Your Child Of Any Age Pack His/Her Own Fun Bag!
  • Put Passports, Health Cards and Travel Documents In YOUR Money Belt or Bag

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Do ALL Laundry In Advance

When packing for a trip of any length, it's useful to have all of the clothing clean and organized in advance so that you know exactly where to find that special sweatshirt from Grandpa or the exact pajama shorts with soccer balls that your child will wear without needing to be cajoled.  

Before I pack for trips I try to do all of our laundry ahead of time.  This is helpful in two ways: 1) I can find everything I need easily and without stress; and 2) I'm psyched to come home to a house with no dirty laundry waiting for me to do!  

(Except for the trip laundry, hahaha!)

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Buy A Different Color Of Socks And Underwear For Each Child

If you have more than one child, especially multiple boys or multiple girls, it becomes very important to know whose socks and underwear are in whose bags.

"He's wearing MY underpants!" is often the overture to a squabble in our family, as one child may be worried about the other one stretching out his precious undies.  Socks are also a hot commodity when we travel, with each child protesting that someone else is wearing their socks.  

I've found the quickest way to solve this is to buy each of my children a different color of socks and underwear. It's impossible to accidentally pack the wrong socks and underwear in the wrong bag when Soccer Dude only wears blue socks and The Scientist only wears gray ones. There will also be no confusion about sock-thievery! 

This strategy also makes it easy to see and count how many of each item you currently have packed for each kid. BONUS - you can keep track of which child goes through three pairs of socks in a day (while her brother may go through three pairs in a week, yikes). 
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Make A Checklist For Each Child (Or Adult!)

If you decide in advance exactly how many pairs of pants, tee-shirts and pajamas you want to pack for each child, this takes all of the thinking out of your packing process.  I make a checklist for each kid and then work my way through it.

With the checklist in hand I literally go to their bedroom and pull out all of the things on the list (e.g. 3 sweaters, CHECK!  4 pairs of jeans, CHECK!) and then get to the more time consuming work of neatly rolling them and placing them into the bag. 

As I pack each category, I can check it off the list and then I don't have to worry later that I've forgotten something important. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!


Make Seasonal, Trip Specific Checklists 

February Snow trip? 
Make and use your Snow Trip Checklist!  (Snow boots, ski jacket, warm hat, etc!)
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July Beach trip? 
Make and use your Beach Trip Checklist! (Bathing suit, beach shoes, sunscreen, etc!)

Google docs or spreadsheets work perfectly for this. You get the picture! 

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Pack One Child At A Time

Maybe it's just me, but when I try to pack multiple kids at once I lose track of things.  "Did I just put four pairs of pants in Soccer Dude's bag, or was that Little Angel?"  I find myself struggling to remember whether everyone has their rain jackets or hairbrushes.  Then I get frustrated and have to go check every bag to make sure I did it correctly, and that wastes time.

When you pack just one child at a time, using a separate checklist for each of them, you can be sure that if you've checked off a box for that kid, you're done.  You've successfully packed them and you can now move on.


Get A Second Pair Of Eyes To Double Check

It never hurts to have a partner in crime (e.g. Dad, an older child, etc.) double check the packing to be sure that you've not accidentally forgotten the toothbrushes or something. Hey, stuff happens.  We get tired.  It's great for your older kids to participate with this because once they understand the process, they can pack for themselves!

A second pair of eyes can prevent any packing nightmares... such as the time we arrived for our flight at the Tijuana, Mexico airport to discover that Little Angel's suitcase had been left sitting at home on the front porch of our house in San Diego, California... across an international border!  
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Label Your Bags

Has an airline ever lost your bag?  Yep, me too.  Our bags have also been misplaced at hotels and train stations. So, it makes sense to label all of your luggage - especially your kids' bags - before you leave for your trip. 

Children may be more likely to accidentally forget to pick up their bag in their excitement to board the airplane or jump into a taxi in a new country.  Having each bag clearly labeled with an up-to-date mailing address is the best way to make sure that your kiddo's bag can find its way back to him/her if for some crazy reason it goes on its own travel adventure!
 
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Weigh Your Carry-Ons

Each airline has pretty strict limits on weight and height for your carry on luggage.  I can't tell you exactly what the weight and height restrictions will be for each airline (you'll have to read that in the terms of your ticket purchase) but I can tell you that we've had our carry on bags measured and weighed twice recently when we were boarding full airplanes without enough room in the overhead storage compartments.

(One time we passed, and the other time our bags ended up getting taken to the hold!)

If you're trying to travel light and move quickly, it makes sense to weigh your own bag at home before you go to make sure it isn't too heavy.  You'll know in advance if you've met the airline's requirements and you won't face a last minute surprise of having your 'carry on' taken from you and stowed in the hold for your flight.  You may save yourself a lot of time waiting in baggage claim as well!

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Have Your Child Of Any Age Pack His/Her Own Fun Bag!

If you haven't read my original article about the importance of having a travel 'fun bag' for each of your children, please read that next!  Fun bags have saved the day (and night!) in countless situations where we suddenly found ourselves delayed, stuck without transportation, enduring a 15 hour flight, or staying in an AirBNB that had no television, radio, toys or even a view to look at! 

Even a three year old can decide exactly which toys they want to play with during your trip... and the selection process will mean that they have committed in their own minds to using and enjoying that toy, deck of cards, doll, book or iPod throughout the entire adventure. 

Toys that Mom or Dad pick may be easily overlooked or discarded... but odds are great that fun items that your own teen or little pick out on their own will be cherished and enjoyed throughout your trip.
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Put Passports, Health Cards and Travel Documents In YOUR Money Belt or Bag

I don't care HOW responsible your 12 year old may be, it is still not a great idea to hand over his or her only health insurance card or boarding pass and expect that NOTHING can or will go wrong!  

In reality, your children are learning responsibility and that's a great thing... but it will still take weeks or longer for the passport office to issue you a new one if your kiddo accidentally leaves their passport in the airport restroom. 

I keep all of our family's passports and health insurance cards in a money belt that I bought at REI years ago, and when I travel I can relax secure in the knowledge that even if the suitcases get lost or stolen, I'll still be able to get my kids home with ease thanks to boarding passes on my phone and all crucial identity documents hidden securely under my outfit!
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​To sum it up:
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Having a well packed bag can make the difference between, well, your kiddo wearing the same pair of shorts for a week (with YOU washing them every night in the sink!) and you spending that time instead on a deck above a lake, enjoying the sunset while your kids run around looking relatively clean and presentable. 

​I hope these packing tips can help your family have the best time possible as you see the world!
Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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The Aventura children are packed and ready to go!
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Waking Up in Odeceixe, Portugal!

3/28/2018

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Good morning, Odeceixe!

​What do we hear on a sunny March morning in the Portuguese countryside?

Chirping!  Lots and lots of chirping from nests of swallows just feet away from the balcony where we sip coffee.  At least eight nests full of tiny baby birds are chattering while their excited, attentive parents coast nearby on the morning breezes.
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​The view is idyllic. Directly below our cottage we see the typical white walled houses of the Portuguese Algarve, each with its windows outlined in bright yellow, blue, green or maroon.

Some houses are newly painted and refurbished while others are dilapidated, like the abandoned house just across the tiny stone street.
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Odeceixe is not dying.  If anything, it appears to be a town in the midst of rebirth.  

This is a story we hear a lot in Portugal.  The economy is improving.  People feel optimistic and excited about their future.  Natives are proud to be Portuguese.  Outsiders feel confident about investing in the country.  It’s a good time to visit.

In the distance echo sounds of hammers, saws and construction... a family-style, community kind of construction involving a few men, some makeshift scaffolding and a bucket of paint.  

There are no corporations in Odeceixe. The town has thankfully not been swallowed up by Starbucks or Burger King.  

Instead we find just a handful of mom-and-pop style restaurants and one tiny market that seems about ten feet long and ten feet wide. 

"How late are you open tonight?" my husband asks its young proprietor.  

"Seven," he replies and looks at the long line of customers waiting to purchase goods from his tiny store.  "Or maybe, a bit later." 

The dark haired man smiles. Business is clearly going well for the only grocery store open in town.  

This sleepy neighborhood feels as though it's just on the cusp of waking up for the summer.  April 1... that's the date we see posted on signs in windows throughout the village.  Odeceixe will officially come alive for the year on April 1.  
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Beautifully maintained church in Odeceixe, Portugal.

Adjacent to the AirBNB we are renting sits a tiny church whose bells chime once every fifteen minutes between eight AM and ten PM.  It's topped by a surprisingly adorable shiny black rooster with red painted feathers.  

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If the health of a town can be measured by the loveliness of its church, it’s easy to see that Odeceixe is doing just fine.  The exterior is in great condition with a new red tiled roof and beautiful white paint lined in gray.

Just behind the church on the hill behind the church sits a tiny graveyard... its carefully tended gravestones naming those who lived and loved here in the past.  
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Beautiful Odeceixe cemetary.

Just past the graveyard there is a  horse.  Yep.  A horse.  He's pretty sweet too, always quietly watching passersby over the wall of his backyard with big, sad eyes. Someone should write a children's story about this lonely, thoughtful Portuguese horse. 
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This guy keeps an eye on things...

Looking further across the valley beyond the white houses, we see rolling green fields and a small winding river making its way out to the sea.  Its water is clean and tranquil, no trash or litter anywhere.  

This is a theme.  Even in the smallest towns we’ve visited, cleanliness is paramount.  Whether rich or poor, Portuguese people take great pride in keeping their towns and villages clean.  

(In Lisbon, a metropolis just 2.5 hours away, an elderly granny yells at our 12 year old son in Portuguese.

"I don't know what she was saying exactly," he explains, "But she was pointing toward the trash can so I went and threw my bag away.") 

Beyond the tiny village, its rolling green fields and winding river, you can see low mountains rising.  Covered in brush, bushes and Eucalyptus trees they rise gently and gracefully - topped with a long narrow stand of tall Eucalyptus trees that look intentionally planted, maybe as a wind break.
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A stand of Eucalyptus along the horizon.

Bright, blue skies overhead are streaked with long, thin cirrus clouds I’m certain I’ve read about in a high school science class twenty-five years ago. They look like jet streams, but there are too many of them and all heading in different directions.  
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Cirrus clouds above Odeceixe.

What will we do today? We wonder aloud in the unhurried fashion of people on vacation; people who have - for the first time in months - slept in.

Shall we walk down the long trail to the Praia de Odeceide, the rugged beach with black hued cliffs edging up to the Atlantic?  Should we head into the mountains to determine if that unusual shape on the horizon is, in fact, an ancient castle or the ruins of a church?  How about a road trip south to explore more of this spectacular Algarve region?

Or we could just linger here in the Portuguese sunshine a bit longer before heading out to find a perfect lunch of fresh fish, cheese, olives, wine and crusty bread? 

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Yes, please.  Yes to everything.

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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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Blissed out and ready for the day!
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Taste of Travel #5: Playa de La Concha, San Sebastián

3/21/2018

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Playa de La Concha, San Sebastián

​Our family discovered Playa de la Concha in the Basque city of San Sebastián for the first time in 2014 when the Aventura children were still tiny.  Little Angel, just four years old, flung off her sandals and ran with delight across its golden sand toward the bay.  

"I LOVE THIS BEACH, MOMMY!" she trilled.

We'd flown from California for a home exchange in Biarritz, France just on the opposite side of the Spanish border. To our surprise and disappointment it was gray and rainy in southern France every single day.  The house was damp and dark. Its bathroom towels smelled mildly of mold.

"Let's drive across the border," suggested my husband Señor Aventura.  "We may find better weather in Spain."

"That's hard to believe." I wrinkled my forehead, trying to imagine how driving just thirty minutes south could make a significant difference in the weather.

Lo and behold, he was right!  As we made the easy, scenic drive between Biarritz and San Sebastián the clouds actually seemed to part and then gently melt away. 
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Beautiful, sunny day at the Bahía de La Concha!

We arrived to find the sun shining upon the exquisite beach, Playa de la Concha, that takes its name from its shell-like shape.  

"Look Mom!!!!  Sand!!!  Real sand, not pebbles!!!" exclaimed The Scientist, who was feeling homesick for California.

"Yay!!!  We can make sand castles!!!" exulted his brother Soccer Dude. 

The children raced forward, eager and delighted.  My husband and I stretched out the threadbare beach towels we'd found in the French exchange house, laying down on the sand.  

"Finally, it feels like vacation!" I smiled.
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2014 - Making sandcastles at La Concha!

We ended up returning across the border four more times during that two week stay in Biarritz... even to celebrate The Scientist's July birthday.  

"I like it here at this beach so much," he confided.  "I want to spend my birthday in San Sebastián and go to that amusement park on top of the big mountain!"

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(We returned again in the summer of 2017 to celebrate Señor Aventura's 43rd birthday.  It's a destination that draws one back, again and again.)

There are a million things to recommend about the lovely city of San Sebastián - pintxos, shops, culture, art, musical performances, bars, Michelin star restaurants and world famous cheesecake.  We adore their aquarium, worth a blog post of its own!


Here is a taste of the iconic beach that first captured our hearts... covering five of its 'must-see' aspects.  La Playa de La Concha and its spectacular surroundings should be on everyone's bucket list!


Playa de La Concha 
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View of the Playa de La Concha from Monte Urgull.

The beach at La Concha is every sunbather's dream.  At approximately 1350 m long and 40 m wide, there is plenty of soft sand where friends, families and singles can play, picnic and sleep. During our various trips to this beach I've seen young couples flirt over paddle ball, teams of players diving into volleyball, children chasing each other in games of tag, topless sunbathing, and people of all ages strolling.

Playa de La Concha is a perfect place for young children because although it's situated on the Atlantic Ocean it's protected from rough water and high surf thanks to tall mountains that surround La Concha Bay.

The waves are gentle and mild and the beach itself is enormous.  Your children will have plenty of space to run and play without worry of getting knocked down by a wave hitting the shore.  Our kids have spent long hours there making drip castles and digging tunnels.
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2017 - Soccer Dude hard at work.

For adventurous youth and adults, a nice floating dock is anchored in easy swimming distance.  It features a diving board and a slide, so strong swimmers can entertain themselves by heading out to the dock and diving off the board into the middle of the sea or having fun on the waterslide. 

​In 2014 our children watched this activity enviously from the beach. By 2017 their swimming skills were strong enough to reach the dock.  They spent hours diving and sliding!


​La Concha is magnetic for people from all over the world, so it isn't surprising to hear a relaxed mix of French, Spanish, English, Italian, German, Russian and Portuguese floating gently on the air toward the water. 

There are also typically street musicians (buskers) perched above the beach on the nearby boardwalk. The sounds of jazz may waft into your afternoon daydreams.



Isla Santa Clara
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Isla Santa Clara in the Bahía de La Concha

The tiny island of Santa Clara looks like it should come straight out of a Robert Lewis Stevenson novel.  It's not hard to imagine a pirate ship docked just off of the sands of its Playa de Santa Clara or buried treasure hidden somewhere in the densely forested cliffs. 

Although never officially inhabited, Santa Clara has served many purposes over time - maybe even as a 16th century quarantine for people dying of plague! It's sad to think of abandoned souls looking longingly across the bay toward their homes and families as they took their final breaths.

Even now Santa Clara has an air of mystery and pathos... yet remains pristinely beautiful.
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2017 - Aventura kids in front of Isla Santa Clara with lighthouse in background!
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Whether you arrive by boat or swim there you'll be charmed by Santa Clara's unusual lighthouse, a terrace bar where you can order tasty beverages while looking out across the bay full of little white boats and picnic tables where you can enjoy a true feast!

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Monte Urgull
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Monte Urgell (mountain, L) with statue of Christ of the Sacred Heart overlooking San Sebastián

The view of Playa de La Concha and Isla Santa Clara from the top of Monte Urgull is nothing short of awe-inspiring. You will not regret the short, steep hike up the mountain to achieve this world class panorama!
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2014 - View from Castillo de la Mota fortress on Monte Urgell.

While at the top take a brief tour of the Castillo de La Mota fortress dating back to the 12th century AD. It was rebuilt many times as a defensive base to help protect San Sebastián from various invasions (mainly by the French) over many centuries. ​
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Christ of the Sacred Heart overlooking the Playa de La Concha

The Castillo was declared a Spanish National Historical and Artistic monument by the king nearly a hundred years ago (1921) and the land around it was turned into a public park for all people to enjoy. 

In the 1950s a special statue of the Christ of the Sacred Heart was commissioned and placed in the center of the castle as a beacon. At 12 meters high this graceful statue can be seen easily from across the Bay and makes a truly striking figure on the horizon!

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Monte Igueldo Amusement Park 
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2014 - Monte Igueldo Amusement Park

To the left side of Playa de La Concha and Playa de Ondaretta sits Monte Igueldo, an imposing mountain with a breathtaking view!

​For more than a century Monte Igueldo has offered various forms of fun and entertainment for locals and tourists.  In 1912 a Casino was built which later (1925) turned into an elegant ballroom where wealthy guests could dance the night away.

This casino and ballroom has more recently been converted into a 4-star hotel along with an amusement park featuring various rides and attractions geared to young children. With 20 attractions including the "Mysterious River", "Terror House," "Boat Pond," a carousel and bumper cars, families or groups of friends can easily spend several happy hours at this fun park and then enjoy a snack while checking out the phenomenal view!
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View from Monte Igueldo

Historic Boat Races
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Training for the annual race!


San Sebastián takes pride in its annual regattas held once a year at the end of the summer in the Bahía de La Concha. 

Inspired by a historic tradition of fishing boats racing each other to shore to sell their catch, these races began formally in 1879 as part of an annual festival and have continued ever since.  For the first two Sundays in September, eight boats race to the finish line.

Originally wooden fishing boats were raced but over the past 130 years the competition modernized and now racing boats are made of kevlar and carbon fiber.

An annual women's regatta was launched in 2008, and its excited audience is steadily growing!

For a few days the sands of La Concha and the nearby boardwalks function as a stadium from which onlookers with binoculars can spectate and rejoice.  ​Visitors flock from all over Europe to cheer the boats on from the beach.  This event is sometimes called the 'Olympics of Rowing'.  Such fun! 

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La Concha at Night
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​Lastly, a little romance...

By night the Playa de La Concha is lit by gorgeous gaslamp streetlights that line its raised boardwalk.  Whether you stroll barefoot under the stars on the sparkling sand or above it on the promenade, there's something more than magical about the Bahía de La Concha in the moonlight.

For these reasons (and a million more) we highly recommend visiting the Playa de La Concha in San Sebastián!  
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Life is short.  Get out there and choose your own adventure! :)
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    Meet Andrea

    Hi! I'm Andrea, a 42 year old mom of three from California! I was an elementary and middle school teacher for 20 years (off and on) and now I'm a writer living with my family in Barcelona, Spain!  We started to travel the world with our kids when they were 3, 5 and 7 years old. Six years later, they're fantastic travelers! My posts aim to give you ideas about how to experience new cultures, foods, languages and adventures with your kids... all on a careful budget!

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